Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Couple of months ago, i had my car dyno'd and got around 157.3kw atw, with afr around the 11-12 mark.

Mods;

- batmbl front/dump

- xforce hiflow cat

- apexi catback

- ARC 110mm SMIC

- Standard boost - leaking to about 12.5psi~

- Splitfire coilpacks

(here is a dyno scan of 150.3kw, dont have a copy of the 157.3kw run which included a new dump/front + cat)

1503kwee7.jpg

Had another dyno run today at Swinburn Tafe and confused about the results..

*note; when the car was on the rollers, it was vibrating real badly too, he suggested it may have not been tied down properly or something..

The differences between last dyno and this one;

- New O2 sensor

- Installed a socket into my ecu for future remapping. (Standard chip in ecu, just installed a socket and plugged standard chip back into ecu)

1257db2.jpg

For the past 2 years all my dyno runs have had an AFR reading of 11-12..

Why has it dropped all the way down to 10 resulting in a large loss of power :P

Thanks

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241685-afr-down-to-101/
Share on other sites

If the ecu detected knkock, then it would have reverted to the low octane map, which i richer. Have you tried resetting the scu?

hmm you could be onto something.

It could be a result to the problem with my car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lu...90#entry4195890

As the car was left to idle before it got onto the dyno it was starting to miss, guess it might have been on safe map as it was run on the dyno?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241685-afr-down-to-101/#findComment-4217654
Share on other sites

Probaly your o2 sensor that needs replacing. Check with datascan/consult for fluctuations in o2 readings. When o2's stop working properly the ecu reverts to a safety map and dumps more fuel.

'

yeah im thinking its my o2 sensor.

When i rev in neutral the o2 voltage doesnt fluctuate. It just stays at a constant voltage.

Although ive heard that o2 sensor doesnt affect the car on full throttle so wouldnt make it run rich?

I'll get the o2 sensor replaced anyways, cause its the only thing which has been changed since last dyno...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241685-afr-down-to-101/#findComment-4218012
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...