Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to purchase some front and rear camber kits for my 33 GTS-t.

After some feedback on Whiteline kits (have just spoken to a workshop & got some quotes very reasonable $$$) and anything else people have used or are using on their rides.

I already have suspension wise - coilovers, strut bars & sway bars.

Any other suggestions to shore up my handling would be greatly appreciated!

(Hicas lock kit is already on my list)

Cheers dudes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242288-camber-adjustment-for-track-days/
Share on other sites

castor rods adjust the castor.

i run the whiteline eccentric bushes. front camber, front castor and rear camber - seems fine so far, reasonably comfortable on the street not much NVH. time will tell how they hold up, however the bushes are supposed to last longer than the arms on the roads.

i have taken the car out to do some track work, only a motorkhana at this stage and with the right alignment it's been perfect

I have some whiteline stuff, seems to be ok....but I could only get about 1.9 neg camber up front with the group buy, not enough so I got dave - TO4GTR to make some "adjustments" :P and now have -4 up front

Im actually looking at replacing most of my whiteline stuff anyway...

i'm not sure if that was a little tongue in cheek or what, i was kinda expecting you to google it yourself. however castor is basically the angle of the steering pivot.

an image is easier to explain

Alignm7.jpg

agree with evil_weevil on this one, i could only get around 1.5-1.7 camber up front, which is totally fine for a street setting. i tried to go a little more hardcore and couldn't do so.

i will be changing away from the whiteline stuff also next time around. it really depends on how hardcore you want to go.

for a mild street setting with the occasional track work i would personally suggest whiteline stuff.

if you want to go a bit hardcore and don't mind the extra discomfort and regular maintenance go the arms.

replacing mine with....well, pretty much replacing the springs, castor and the camber parts.

To what?

Dont know!

Im still looking into that.

If your car is a daily and with an odd track day in a blue moon, go the whiteline, but for me now, I need to upgrade as I just dont feel the package I have is good full time track use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...