Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does it happen to be when the engines cold? thats when the most fuel is being pumped into the engine and i sometimes get that smell. its normal.

but if its just when your driving then you may have an exhaust leak.

hey guys,

i have an r33 non-turbo and every now and then i get a strong smell of petrol in the cabin. im just wondering if anyone would know where it would be comming from and how i could fix it?

cheers.

have u inspected all the hoses n pipes 4 leaks in the car front 2 back???

also inspect the fuel filler neck. during compliance they put in a new fuel filler insert to accomodate the australian fuel nozzles, sometimes they don't seal it properly and you will get fuel leaking when you turn left. mine used to do this when i first got it. pulled out the insert, cleaned up all the old sealant and put some Selley's "knead it" around the insert and pressed it back in. hasn't leaked since.

yeah it is when the engines cold, not too sure if any new work has been done i only brought the car about 3 weeks ago. i is due for a 200k service if that would effect it. haven't had time to have a go at fixing it. hopefuly one of you guys is right, cheers for the feed back. skyline australia is so much easyer to get info from rather then ford forams which i used to uce because i had an el.

Edited by PandaR33

Dude.. at 200,000 km. in Australias Hot conditions I got $100 that sais is the hoses in the boot.

Continue to follow the lines through th chassis too. May need replaceing and as Matt said, canister hoses. And watch your fuel consumtion bottom out :P

Edited by GTS4WD

200k .. =\ theres your reasoning..

Hoses for sure. Its gonna' be annoying following them through the whole cabin, but your gonna' have to do it.

Also check seals and all.

I was dreading my 100k service.. but 200 seems worse now lol.

MRXTCZ

also inspect the fuel filler neck. during compliance they put in a new fuel filler insert to accomodate the australian fuel nozzles, sometimes they don't seal it properly and you will get fuel leaking when you turn left. mine used to do this when i first got it. pulled out the insert, cleaned up all the old sealant and put some Selley's "knead it" around the insert and pressed it back in. hasn't leaked since.

damn this is the problem im having too lol

i used some special hard glue shiet and it works for awhile then ends up popping off.

i tried metal epoxy b4 and that shiet is strong as.

but ill try this knead it sealant next time round if it pops off again.

if i dont wash the car for a week, i can see petrol splash marks from the petrol cap to the rear bar lol

  • 2 weeks later...

well my brother has the same problem in his commodore

we took it to a mechanic and he said its the injector seels

i no there 2 different cars but they might have the same reasons

any answers pm me

i hate the smell of petrol in the car it gives me a headache, so i no what your going through

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...