Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im on the verge of having my RB26 rebuilt, so after calling numerous workshops (local and interstate) and after being given lots of different quotes i'm still undecided as to which workshop to use.

I was quite happy with the quote I was given by Adelaide Engine Developments, but haven't heard much about them prior to finding them in the yellow pages.

Basically im just wondering has anyone here had work done by them?

Any input would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242797-rb26-rebuild-advice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've recently spoken with Lewis engines and quite happy with their knowledge and development with the RB.

Fairly reasonably priced also.

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/

- http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

Unsure why the rb26 rebuild is worth so much more than the rb25/30 rebuild.

As bodgy as it may appear I had my 30 bottom end built up by City Dismantlers.

They checked the motor out and then gave a solid quite. Didn't go over by $1. Less than 3 weeks later the motor was completed, strapped to a pallet wrapped up nicely.

gallery_382_2658_12249.jpg

All up back then inc. all the usual line bore (crank), forged pistons, rod resize, block & rod crack test, forged pistons, grub screw & king bearings cost me 3.9k to also fit the head and drill/tap the upper tensioner position.

Motors been good, always made good power and has done 100,000km's so far. :D

The same things done to the motor from Miltons they wanted 6.5k :S

Main reason I went with City's is the bloke who was in charge back then (Andrew) was able to answer any question I threw at him without hesitation. He had a history in speedway since a young kid and built many a few tough vlt's back in the day so he knew all the little tricks to perform with them.

They had what looked like new machinery, workshop was clean and organised. Some of the places I checked out I wouldn't be suprised if they lost bits. :S

Either way fixed price with no umm's or arr's, clean workshop, organised and the bloke was able to answer questions others were not able to won me over. ;)

Thats exactly why i'm leaning towards Adelaide Engine Developments, i've only had a chat with them over the phone.

But the guy I spoke to knew exactly what the go was, apparently they've done quite a few RB26 in the past, and the quote was... a fraction of some others I have received. :D

I'll be checking out their facilities next week

Edited by Tommmo

John moyle on main nth rd blair athol, is who built mine.

and remember the guy you talk to on the phone is normally just a salesman.

you need to talk one on one with the engine builder himself.

Dave at john moyle has been building, and dynoing speedway engines for nearly 40 yrs.

awesome price, awesome work, and a engine dyno if you want to run it in beforwe you install it.

highly recomended

places like bdt dont have a machine shop, so your paying for a middle man.

i dont see the point.

ill build ya stinker

i had chris miltons

do all the machine work on my 30det and i did all the assembaly etc .

made over 364rwkw on 18psi cost me less than $3500 to do the bottem end !

in the process of building another 30det to back up the fact i make killa motors

AED are decent, build HEAPS of big hp v8 motors, and jobbie works out of there (head porter). They would have a solid base to work from building a RB26. Could even tune and run in on the engine dyno if you desired. I would recommend also, tony knight engines and john keen for engine assembly. I know a guy building a LS1 stroker now, and is trying out lewis engines machining now, as we are getting sick of the pricing from rhemacs.

Cheers

troy you may be very well qualified to do engine assembly but it's amazing how many others think they can, and all they do is push brgs in, add a dob of oil, drop the crank in and torque to specs without using inside & outside mic's to check clearances, without checking endfloat, without checking for brg crush and even chipping the edges off scraper & segmental oil rings while pushing them into the bores. Just because the crank's been ground doesn't mean you don't still check everything.......9 times out of 10 main tunnels don't need line boring unless a brg has turned or been hammered.........that's why we do all the above checks.

Hence why it's a good idea to get the engine reconditioner to also assemble unless your a qualified mechanic or engine reconditioner IMO, so +1 dangerman4

thanks for the feedback guys, can someone pm contact details for John moyle.

Cant hurt to get another quote :(

John Moyle Motor Engineering

1a Collins St, Enfield, SA 5085

p: (08) 8269 3214 f: (08) 8344 1202

i supplied all the parts and they did all the machining and assembly of the short motor,

i suggest you do the same, as you know what parts you want and they know how to fit them.

ie rods , pistons, crank collar etc.

Once again thanks for the feedback, but i've decided to go with Adelaide Engine Developments. The guys there were very easy going, quick to answer all my questions and brought up issues I hadn't previously considered. The wokshop (be it small) is also quite well setup.

Engines being pulled out and tuesday! Looking forward to the whole build, hopefully there's not too many hickups!

thommo was the blokes name from adelaide engine developments name chris smith???? i beleive him and his mate run that business i work with chris up here and hes apparently good hes going to do a bit of my new motor im getting.

cheers... michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...