Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, soon as id be trailering a skyline to trackdays thought i would post this question.

new P plate laws stop you from driving any v8, unless you have a certificate allowing you to due to special reson such as work, from what ive heard.

does any one know, or can anyone find out if i would legally be able to own a v8 as my tow car.

when i say v8 i dont meen like a sporty v8, i mean a bmw 535i or 540i with a weight of like 1600 and a power of 170kw or there abouts.

any ideas, theories would be great

Cheers

Gezza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242812-p-plater-with-v8-tow-car/
Share on other sites

if u wanna drive a v8.. you gotta send vicroads a letter for an exemption..

Theres like 3 ways to get it..

1. your using it as a work vehicle..

2. you're going through hardship and the vehicle was passed down through ur family..

3. i forgot. ;]

lol 5 series bimmer as a tow car?

the laws may be nonsense, but its probably not worth the hassle trying to go down this path. not to mention a bmw as a tow car. have fun with the maintenance.

youre best going for a diesel, 6 cyl ute. it may be a bomb, but if youre really looking for a "tow car" and not a way to cheat the laws to get a bmw, a ute is a much better option.

For a dirty tow car, why not a dirty ford or commodore wagon - I navigated for two different guys who used one or the other, they are cheap cars, reasonably reliable, 6 cyl with -plenty of torque for towing, cheap to buy and repair if you need to (unlike a bmw, and lets face it, you will be spending all your spare cash on a track car), heaps of room for spare parts/tools, and when you get to the track - no one looks at the tow cars...

lol yeah a beamer would be a bit precious but its for my daily driver aswell, as wen i put my 33 on the track i am completly with out a car. that is why the nicer than usual tow car.

just contemplatig my nicer options, thanks guys.

they will exempt you for work purposes as stated.. is it you job? No, then they won't exempt you.. and yeah they will know you are using it as a daily.. which means you are trying to loop hole the law.. they won't do it

I had a subaru liberty with a surprising amount of torque for towing, I pulled a few trailers full of crap / cars etc up hills and things with no problems, and it was only a 2.2l manual, good car too, nice drive and never had any problems - I would consider another if I needed a tow car/daily

Exactly. You don't need a massive engine to tow. One of my mates used to tow a HQ race car with an E30 BMW 323i. Old 6 cylinder Falcodores will tow something well enough.

Diesels are exempt from the turbo restrictions, so you get an old 4WD or something as well.

And the 540i was meant to be "sporty". It's not meant to be a HSV competitor, but in BMW's lineup it would be akin to a V8 Calais.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...