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R32 Actuator --> Rb25

gotRICE?

By gotRICE?,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
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Hey man. Yeah all went perfect.

Just unlug and un-bolt the solenoid. Have the Actuator vac line running straight to the Intercooler pipe (where it is factory) and the line that comes of the intake pipe, either get a blank for it or put a bolt in it. Whallah!

  • 1 year later...
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mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

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Hey all, sorry to bring up an old thread but it seemed like the best place to ask for help.

I'm wanting to get an R32 actuator and stick it in my R33... question is, how do I actually replace the actuator?

Is it a simple matter of say, removing my intercooler piping and then I'll be able to get to it? Or is more work than that needed to expose what I need to get to?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
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You can get at it with the intercooler piping on.. at a pinch.

Take the circplip off the end of the rod that connects to the wastegate flapper, pull of the VAC line, then remove the two bolts holding the actuator to the turbo.

Reverse to put the R32 on :P But, only running a single vac line from the intercooler piping to the actuator. Blocking off the hose that went to the intake tube. And removing the boost solenoid.

  • 3 weeks later...
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

I picked up the 32 actuator last weekend and popped it in, easy as pie. It was exactly as gotrice said... just circlip off, remove bolts and vacuum line... done!

I'm only hitting 9psi or so though... and that's reading from the stock spot on the back of the plenum.

Has anyone had that happen? I'm gonna hook up the solenoid again this weekend and see if I can get to about 12 or if it'll only get 10-11, so confused.

  • 3 months later...
KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have a picture of the stock R32 actuator available, and where it's located in the engine bay. Hope I don't appear too stupid, but is the actuator and solenoid two different things? or do people refer to the same thing by different names. I've read the thread about grounding the stock R33 solenoid wire too achieve a permanent high boost mode. Just wondering about the actuator side of things, especially this thread here. I like the idea of 10psi and am nearing all my stage 1 mods being completed.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yep they are two different things :)

The solenoid:

boostwire.jpg

The acutator:

ActuatorShieldstockSmall.jpg

Obviously the bit on the right :P

If it was me, id find an r32 actuator and ditch the solenoid all together :) Thats what i did.

Thank's for those :)

I'm weighing up a few things when it comes to upping the boost. But had another question.

Will installing a FMIC increase my boost pressure? I've read a few things where this might happen due to the increased airflow. Currently I have the stock SMIC installed.

Edited by KrazyKong
KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was aware of the "increased" lag when mounting a FMIC. Was curious as I have read folks also had more boost showing on their gauges after mounting a FMIC too.

My goal is to get the FMIC installed, then be running at 10psi. So am working out whether I should do the R32 actuator, or go with a t-piece. I quite like the R32 actuator idea though. Seems like a nice efficient way of getting to 10psi without splicing in t-pieces and so on. Also I'm more likely to eliminate boost creep due to having no t-piece setup right?

Will see if I can wrangle up a R32 actuator. As far as the solenoid goes, that only gets disconnected if I go with the R32 actuator right? otherwise I can ground it now to get 7psi I believe. That's where I read about the increased psi from installing a FMIC I think. Guys would ground the solenoid which should give 7psi, but in actuality they were getting 10psi due to the higher flow.

Edited by KrazyKong
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

I bought my FMIC a few months back but have been preoccupied with other facets of the car. Now that I'm close to finishing all of those, it's FMIC time. I have a return flow ARC one. I don't know the model, but it's more of a square shaped unit than say a stock GTR FMIC one which is not as high, but wider. I'm told it is a very good unit however as it's Japanese made and ARC is a good brand. It also looks to be in great condition.

I have a turbo back exhaust. 3" to the cat, and slightly larger from the cat back. So hmmm, what would you do in my position then rice? Would there be any difference in the way I get 10 psi? R32 actuator vs grounding solenoid?

And if I get 10psi through grounding the solenoid due to having a turbo back exhaust, wouldn't I then get more than 10 with the r32 actuator?

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

dont do that. think, if the sloenoid takes the boost from 5psi (stock r33 actuator set level) to 7/8psi. add that to your 10 psi r32 actuator, and you are spiking to 12/13psi. unless you want to

  • 1 month later...
OoskylineoO Experienced

OoskylineoO

Posted
Posted

sorry to hi jack, recently installed a rb20 actuator and now its overboosting to about 16+psi !. I've been reading and believe i hooked up everything correctly. I'm puzzled now :S. Current mods, 3'' bellmouth and zorst, turbotech boost T set to ~12psi and a nistune remap.

Prior to this problem I had another 1, my boost would drop from 12psi to about 10psi only in high revs (5500-redline), the actuator was suspected so i replaced with rb20 1 and now this :)

Any ideas guys?, only thing i changed during isntalltion was extending the vac line from actuator to boost T to cooler pipe to reach. :S

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