Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u can't stuff it..actually you can, but its pretty hard..

as long as you have a proper boost guage you are safe (even if you borrow one and rig it in). I wouldn't recommend you muck with it without a guage though. If you install it all, take it for a spin, and the boost starts creeping too far back it off, and you'll be safe.

If you haven't got your S-AFC installed yet(?) and tuned - also be careful dialing it past about 9psi as you might start leaning out with the stock ECU (danger, danger) . If you have a 95 model you can prolly go a bit further in the boost stakes.

I fiddled around removing and putting on a couple of boost controllers (going back to stock, blah). Only time i had troubles was when i put back on my stock solenoid and got the tubing the wrong way.. When it kept spinning past 12 i knew something was wrong so i backed up to fix it all up again :P Without a guage to see this it would'a just kept spinning till nice little bits of ceramics were rattling in my exhaust.

errrrrr thats kinda scary nowww. gee's gord..with the bits and peices rattling in your zorst. thanks for your detailed info dude.. :P

always detail info you give!

If you haven't got your S-AFC installed yet(?) and tuned - also be careful dialing it past about 9psi as you might start leaning out with the stock ECU (danger, danger) . If you have a 95 model you can prolly go a bit further in the boost stakes.

sooo what should i do? get the boost controller install same time as the tuning of the safc? surely workshops will have a spare gauge i can borrow .

Where abouts in the Sth Eastrn Suburbs?....I know of one near chaddie shopping centre......

yepp. very close to chaddy. PM me with the details. cheers dude.

if you're not confident yourself, just get the place that installs the S-AFC to also install the boost controller and tune it all up as one - will work out cheaper that way. A workshop will also use their own pressure guage to check everything so you shouldn't need an aftermarket guage then (but they are a good idea)

You're close to chaddy too ..hmm, i am 5 mins away.. if you want me to quickly show you what u need to do, let me know.

pushhead if you need someone to install it and do some calibration drop me a pm or email me have all the equipment and boost guage if needed can also hook you up with a simple one nice and cheap

cheers

[email protected]

oh btw the install would be done in knox

aawwww thanks all for offering assistance. This shows Victoria has a great community to fellow skyline owners. The bond and friendship is great. Glad to be a victorian :)

Anyway enuff of mushy stuff, I found some installer down the road from my house.. will speak to him and see.. .

Thanks acsplit for offering to help with installation. Knox is quite close to me :D

Hey Nath dude, if you live abit closer to me (takes me like 2hours to get to your house lol damn west freeway's are confusing) i get u to look at it. Thanks for offering too bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...