Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't compare the Hawk's (HPS) to anything other than stock brakes but they are definatley better than stock and lots less dust. I managed to source mine over the net and bought when the exchange rates were better. Managed to get 2 x fronts and 1 x rear for $270 Aust, I noticed now that the fronts are $97 US before freight and then the exchange rate, ouch.

I have to get some new pads for the r32 GTR calipers that are about to go on. Any suggestions?

Cheers

Andy

So what do you want for the front HAWKS???

Andy my brother has some Ultimates on a wicked R33 GTST with stock 4spot Nissan calipers, braided lines & for a car punching 368KW at the rear treads they hauled OK.

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So what do you want for the front HAWKS???

Andy my brother has some Ultimates on a wicked R33 GTST with stock 4spot Nissan calipers, braided lines & for a car punching 368KW at the rear treads they hauled OK.

I have someone else deciding if they want to buy the spare set I have at the moment. If he decides not to buy them you will be offered first refusal. I am selling them for $95 Aust.

Cheers

Andy

I have someone else deciding if they want to buy the spare set I have at the moment. If he decides not to buy them you will be offered first refusal. I am selling them for $95 Aust.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks for the Brake Pads Andy, great to meet a fellow enthusiast....should have the new slotted rotors in 2morrow & the car back on the road.....might even have the opportunity to meet up on Thursday evening with the rest of you.....if anyone is keen.

Now the only thing left to do is lock in some Dyno time & start mapping!!!! Did anyone attend the dyno day at Unique last weekend???

PS. Just saw a dear friends new Ride!!!! Wow Premium Silver R35 GTR, spectacular machine......Wonder if the VR38DETT slots into the STAG :banana:

Cheers

TT

post-639-1227009320_thumb.jpg

VR38DETT.htm

I was at the dyno day, TT, but I didn't put my car on the dyno. I was out there mainly to hlp out and sell some SAU merchandise, etc.

Typically, I was the only Stagea owner there. I'm guessing Alex would have come along, but I think he had prior commitments.

Thanks for the Brake Pads Andy, great to meet a fellow enthusiast....should have the new slotted rotors in 2morrow & the car back on the road.....might even have the opportunity to meet up on Thursday evening with the rest of you.....if anyone is keen.

Now the only thing left to do is lock in some Dyno time & start mapping!!!! Did anyone attend the dyno day at Unique last weekend???

PS. Just saw a dear friends new Ride!!!! Wow Premium Silver R35 GTR, spectacular machine......Wonder if the VR38DETT slots into the STAG :/

Trying to get there tomorrow myself......might have to work another Double shift though.

Trying to get there tomorrow myself......might have to work another Double shift though.

Damm rotors didnt arrive today so looks like they'll be in 2morrow & some bedding in is called for gents.....how many of you go through the Old Pacific HWY when heading up North?

There's usually quite a few who do the Old Pacific. I usually head up the freeway, but seeing as it was "zei201" Ian's first time on the Coastie cruise, I went with them on the Old Pacific last week too. It's been resurfaced in quite a few areas, so it's quite nice to drive now.

Damm rotors didnt arrive today so looks like they'll be in 2morrow & some bedding in is called for gents.....how many of you go through the Old Pacific HWY when heading up North?

Is there another road other than the old one......I heard that only Volvo's take the new one! :D

I will defiantly be on the Old PH.....hopefully I can control myself this time :P

yeah the old pac drive isnt bad at all compared to the old surface! im happy to go either way. if its raining ill take the freeway

C'mon dood if its raining you should definitelty take the Old road...give the 4wd a good work out :P

Damm rotors didnt arrive today so looks like they'll be in 2morrow & some bedding in is called for gents.....how many of you go through the Old Pacific HWY when heading up North?

Hey Tony, How are those new rotors and pads going?

Any news on the programing of the ECU?

Cheers

Andy

Hey Tony, How are those new rotors and pads going?

Any news on the programing of the ECU?

Cheers

Andy

Hi Andy,

The brakes work a treat...New set of slottled RDA rotors, the front HAWKS ,fresh Brake fluid and give the calipers a coat of heat resistant paint.....she's good as new!!!!

I spoke to the tuner today and he still needs some time before he's willing to work on the AXIS....this guys pretty meticulous and doesnt take any short cuts, if he could get his hands on a donor ecu that's willing to be sacrificed in the name of R&D....this would definitely speed the process up for all of us and explore greater avenues like potentially remapping shift points on the Gearbox.

Doing a piggy back is no problem....but there is more to be had with the remapping of the stock ECU and he's very confident there are good gains to be had.

To give you an idea he tuned a stock BMW 335i TWIN TURBO to 237RWKW.... remeber these came out with 225kW and 400nm at the flywheel, so we should potentially see between 180-200kw at all fours....time will tell!!!!

post-639-1227621140_thumb.jpg

About 132awkw is what I got my car dynoed, fully stock with no power mods.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Nm...-s-t227930.html

Btw Tony, have you put in the cooler yet? I'm keen to see how the tune went as well too :)

Eugene

Hi Eugene,

Any reason why you had the car dynoed in 3rd gear?

The intercooler wasnt a straight fit, there was some trimming of the reo bar needed for it to fit nicely.....there's no real noticable gain but we'll find out stats soon enough once we start mapping which unfotunately is taking a little longer than expected.

Some pics of the provisonal mounting of the cooler :P

Cheers

TT

post-639-1227789968_thumb.jpg

post-639-1227790006_thumb.jpg

post-639-1227790039_thumb.jpg

post-639-1227790081_thumb.jpg

Hi Eugene,

Any reason why you had the car dynoed in 3rd gear?

The intercooler wasnt a straight fit, there was some trimming of the reo bar needed for it to fit nicely.....there's no real noticable gain but we'll find out stats soon enough once we start mapping which unfotunately is taking a little longer than expected.

Some pics of the provisonal mounting of the cooler :D

Cheers

TT

Looking good.

Hey Tony,

To be honest Im not sure what gear they did the dyno, I never asked them about this.

And the cooler looks great. I've found in the past with my other cars (S15 and GT-R) that you've got to trim the reo bar and also the front bar as well. Now that I'm putting a fatter GReddy drag cooler into the gt-r, i'll need to trim more.

Good luck with the mods and tuning. I can't wait till you post up the results!

Btw, I need to get a new exhaust as my stock one is starting to fall apart. Can I ask what Fuji system you have on yours? Is it a Legais-R?

thanks

Hey Tony,

To be honest Im not sure what gear they did the dyno, I never asked them about this.

And the cooler looks great. I've found in the past with my other cars (S15 and GT-R) that you've got to trim the reo bar and also the front bar as well. Now that I'm putting a fatter GReddy drag cooler into the gt-r, i'll need to trim more.

Good luck with the mods and tuning. I can't wait till you post up the results!

Btw, I need to get a new exhaust as my stock one is starting to fall apart. Can I ask what Fuji system you have on yours? Is it a Legais-R?

thanks

Yep its the Legalis R.... Once everything is ready to go and we can start mapping, I'l also get a few other Vq25det Stagea owener to do a power run so we can compare results off the same dyno.

Cheers

TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...