Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Lately my passenger window has gotten tempremental. Sometimes it just doesn't work. The switch still click's, but the window just won't go down :blink:

Hasn't anyone else had this problem? Is it common? and more importantly, does anyone know how to fix it?

PS, it's a 350gt coupe

Edited by Blitz_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244340-electric-window-problems/
Share on other sites

reading from the american forums, it is a very common problem on the V35 / G35 cars

the window motor needs to be replaced. if you go to nissan and order one they will slug you one hefty bill (around $700)

i have seen them for sale on ebay oem genuine parts for much cheaper. i dont know if it is a problem with left / right had side as in america everything is switched?

-mark

Thanks for that blistc. I thought it was the motor as i checked all the connection to it with the multimeter and it is receiving the signal. I'll have to get my hands on a new motor.

The thing is, if I do get it to open it will continue to work properly as long as I don't fully close it. Like I've been worried that if I open it it won't close, but that never happens. Does that still sound like it's the motor then?

replace it BEFORE it quits. thye drop when you open/close the door so if it breaks then you will have a small gap to deal with.

the USDM window bits are the same. its the locks that are different.

how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

Edited by BLISTC
how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

My Passenger side has just stated doing exactly the same thing. very temperamental! interested to know how much it is for a new motor. My car is still under warranty, and the window motor is on the list of defects that the warranty covers..so i might have to sit tight till it happens. My car has just clocked 40k too

Found this on the net, will give it a shot tomorrow

We started having a problem with the driver side window on our 2004 G35 Coupe. It would roll down, but then wouldn't come back up unless you slammed the door a time or two. Went to the forums and saw that quite a few people have had the same problem. Noticed one in particular that said that you should regrease the regulator before the motor burned out. Well, when I finally went to fix ours, the motor appeared to be shot. It no longer would even go down. I took it apart with the idea of replacing the motor ($282) and possibly the regulator ($95). Before I did that, I took the motor off and hooked it up to a 12 volt power source. There are 6 pins in the connector, two on one side and four on the other. I applied 12 volts across the two on the one side, and the motor turned! Switching the leads, it turned the way. I put it back in the regulator and worked it up and down, no problem. No problem, at least until I let the regulator go all the way to one end, which left the cables tight, and the motor a little bound up. The motor would no longer function.

I took the motor off and then took it apart by removing the housing, which is held on by three small screws. I was very surprised at the amount of dirty grease that was present all around the brushes. I cleaned up the brushes and the surface of the commutator and put it back together. I put it in the regulator and let it bind a bit. No problem, it would come alive as soon as I applied voltage. I put it back in the car, remembering to reset the position sensor, as discussed in service bulletin ITB04-033, and now the window is working as it should.

Good work, blitz boy.

I did a very similar thing to a seized motor on a R33 Side Mirror that wouldn't fold in...

It was never going to turn and was locked solid... still works now about 6 years later.

Where did you get a copy of the Service Bulletin and can they all be downloaded?

Motor is shagged!!

should I order 80731-CD00A or 80731-CD001 ?? Is there a difference?

Pretty sure they are the same part. I had the same problem, cleaned the bushes of the motor, worked fine for a couple of months and then the same problem again (had read this on the internet that it was not worth cleaning them, because that is what happens, and sure enough it did). I was fortunate to be in the US on holidays, so bought the replacement from a Nissan Dealer.

Pretty annoying problem for a so-called luxury car, have not had a power window problem in any car for years, but it seems this is pretty common. Having said that though, there are people with older cars on forums that have had no trouble, so it seems to be a common problem, but not universal.

  • 5 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...