Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rubbish!

Lets ignore LC for now. Ever been in an non TC car on grass and floored it? What happens? The wheels spin at a zillion miles an hour. What happens when you come off of the grass and back onto the road? There is a massive load as those high spinning wheels re-grip. If the car had TC on however you'd never had got those huge spinning wheels on the grass and then no massive load when you grip back up. And how about going from a wet surface to a dry one?

Now back to LC. Who says that feature that is being used as LC was actually meant to be that? It's not in any manuals I've seen or heard about. It may just be a lower rpm rev cut due to the fact the car is stationary and consequently not getting any cooling. And people are just mis-using this feature to create a type of LC. I dunno. Either way like the above situations it puts pressures on drive-trains that wouldn't occur had VDC been switched on.

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So.......after this whole thread, why dont more people run out and get JDM ones?

Its not like they're not available. You also get a definate price and definate delivery price (eg, pay now, take it home straight away). Except in case of being concerned and requiring warranty, finance not being approved for low volume imports etc

Nissan, thankfully for current GTR owners like myself just waiting for the prices to fall a bit, are leaving it quite late to get on the compliance bandwagon

So nissan dont want you machining the discs? Ouch. Thats going to hurt the old wallet at service time

DOT4 only for brake fluid?!

Hill start assist is a nice touch though, Subaru Liberties have had that for a while

So.......after this whole thread, why dont more people run out and get JDM ones?

Its not like they're not available. You also get a definate price and definate delivery price (eg, pay now, take it home straight away). Except in case of being concerned and requiring warranty, finance not being approved for low volume imports etc

Nissan, thankfully for current GTR owners like myself just waiting for the prices to fall a bit, are leaving it quite late to get on the compliance bandwagon

It could have something to do with the souring exchange rate bumping the price of the JDM ones up by about $40K. It's actually cheaper to get one from Nissan.

Edited by Iron Chef
So.......after this whole thread, why dont more people run out and get JDM ones?

I'm going to guesstimate that those who are using them as road cars are going to want a warranty and dealer support if they're putting down $150K. Maybe they've never been to a Nissan stealership, and realised how little you're actually getting from them. :D

People who are able to pay the asking price, and then modify / race them, pretty much already have done so.

Nissan, thankfully for current GTR owners like myself just waiting for the prices to fall a bit, are leaving it quite late to get on the compliance bandwagon

I dunno about that. Nissan didn't have them ready for local sale when the Aussie dollar was doing a roaring trade against the Yen, which would have been the perfect time to bring in a car this expensive. I'm not sure if they're "leaving it late", or just procrastinating because they're lazy, or some other reason.

It could have something to do with the souring exchange rate bumping the price of the JDM ones up by about $40K. It's actually cheaper to get one from Nissan.

I agree with your point about the exchange rate, but as far as buying them from Nissan, we'll have to see what they end up coming in at :)

I'm going to guesstimate that those who are using them as road cars are going to want a warranty and dealer support if they're putting down $150K. Maybe they've never been to a Nissan stealership, and realised how little you're actually getting from them. :blink:

People who are able to pay the asking price, and then modify / race them, pretty much already have done so.

I dunno about that. Nissan didn't have them ready for local sale when the Aussie dollar was doing a roaring trade against the Yen, which would have been the perfect time to bring in a car this expensive. I'm not sure if they're "leaving it late", or just procrastinating because they're lazy, or some other reason.

Leaving it late is leaving it late mate, my fingers are crossed they miss the boat, so to speak :D

I suspect if they're announcing on-road prices, they would've been smart enough to lock in exchange rates and purchased their yen back when the dollar was strong. If they didn't, they'll be losing on every GT-R they sell if the RRP doesn't change.

But yes, Nissan haven't left much of a gap in their 18-month window before used ones become eligible...

Edited by Iron Chef

well the R35 that I have coming was paid for earlier this year, so even though it's only being imported now, it will be sold at effectively the old rate, so some lucky person will get to capitalise on the fact that we bought the yen to pay for it months ago. if it was being paid for now I'd say it would cost over $220K. I think most importers will do the same as me if they can and do the right thnig and sell them at the 'old rate' as it won't be viable any other way.

A question to you guys that know importing better than i do, what would be the latest nissan could start the compliance approval proceedings and get it done in time?

I know compliance is taking ages currently, but lets say for argument sake, that compliance are at their usual pace of work :ninja:

Good fortune has indeed smiled on you, my friend - I envy the lucky bugger who buys it off you!

so do I! in the meantime all I can do is look longingly at the keys for it dangling off my key hook. :)

Officially neither does the EVO X SST nor the DSG VW's - but all of them if you know the right button sequences will activate the Launch Control. This will not be mentioned in ANY of the operating manuals by any of those companies but that doesn't mean that it isnt there - it is just not listed as "a standard feature" and they will refuse to admit its existence.

But as I already mentioned they state that "The use & descriptions of this type of procedure being outlined in the testing and reviews is not endorsed by Nissan" which means it will still be there. And they also state that turning the VDC off will void your warranty so therefore should you do it and break the car its your problem.

Put simply if they say the car doesn't have launch control (or should I say not reference that it does have it) they don't have to then say "it has launch control but you can't use it".

I am almost certain that there is instructions in my DSG golf on how to use the launch control, or some form of it. I will try remember to get a picture of it tonight.

So nissan dont want you machining the discs? Ouch. Thats going to hurt the old wallet at service time

DOT4 only for brake fluid?!

Hill start assist is a nice touch though, Subaru Liberties have had that for a while

That's a standard function for DSG's - the clutches take up when you get off the brake.

  • 4 weeks later...
Fair enough, my arguement still stands, IF Nissan had released a manual gearbox, i dont think there would have been many issues. Alright maybe blowing the clutch at most due to improper bedding etc, but Nissan would bed it before anyhow. Sure it maybe a few 10ths slower but it would still have a manual, which would be lighter then the heavy auto, cheaper to replace, and be more interactive and fun to drive.

But hey, thats just my 2c

Whats so good about a manual gearbox??? This has all the benefits of a manual plus the benefits of an automatic (without the drawbacks ie. torque convertor). Do you really miss having a clutch that much? Did you only just get your licence and using a clutch is still a novelty to you?

i think one of the reasons the GT-R is so quick is because of the box, think about how many gear changes you would have, say at the nurburgring, (i think around 70) and how much quicker those paddle shifts are relative to manually changing. There would be a tenth or two advantage in every gearchange. It all adds up i reckon..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...