Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a premium coupe with Bose sound system as usual. Lately when going around corners the left speakers are dropping out. Now over some bumps the sound goes in and out. At first I thought it was just a loose speaker wire in the left hand door, but I have since realised the Left rear side speaker is doing the same thing, which I am guessing may have something to do with where the speaker wire plugs into the back of the stereo itself.

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions before I start pulling the dashboard to bits?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244823-bose-speaker-problem/
Share on other sites

two things there. the lock is a different probelm and a BITCH to change. about $300 for a new one ex japan.

the audio issue. look at the amplifer in the rear left corner of the boot. pull that out and down then look for dry joints. the radio does this as well but I have yet to see it.

the audio issue. look at the amplifer in the rear left corner of the boot. pull that out and down then look for dry joints. the radio does this as well but I have yet to see it.

Thanks for that Chris. I'll have a look at that. Now what is a "dry" joint?

Thanks for that Chris. I'll have a look at that. Now what is a "dry" joint?

If my year 10 electronics serves me correctly I believe it is something to do with fouled solder/contact points on the circuit board, either from wear and tear or from the factory

If my year 10 electronics serves me correctly I believe it is something to do with fouled solder/contact points on the circuit board, either from wear and tear or from the factory

or components that have worked loose due to vibration. considering how that amplifier is mounted I would point the problem there.

Dry joint, you need to re-heat the solder up and make sure it has continuity all the way through the joint.

If you are a bit unsure any good electrical component repair shop could do it fairly easily... or Chris I would think.

no probs. I'm between cars now (have another sedan due inthe morn) I'll take one of these amps out and take a few snaps of it for you.

if you do head down to see me - ring first.I'm not always here.

no probs. I'm between cars now (have another sedan due inthe morn) I'll take one of these amps out and take a few snaps of it for you.

if you do head down to see me - ring first.I'm not always here.

Yeah thanks.

I had a look at it this arvo, sure is a lot of wires going into the amp. Pulled out the plugs and had a look around, couldn't see anything obvious, but as a result of pulling it apart, I think the speakers down the left hand side are now sounding very ordinary (very little grunt) compared to the right hand side.

If I may make a suggestion before you rip the car apart looking for amps and shit, test something first.

When you're getting the problem while listening to a CD, flick over to the radio and see if it happens there (or any other audio source aside from the CD player if you have one). I get the feeling the problem is isolated to the CD player.

The 350Z Bose stereos have a known issue (with TSB I'm pretty sure, although I don't have it to hand) where the speakers intermittently drop out while playing CDs. It doesn't happen with the tape deck or tuner (or aux input for those cagey enough to figure out there was one), and it feels like a loose connection since hard accelerating/braking can start/stop the problem. US guys have complained about it, as have a few Australians I know. Since the Z and V share so many components, it could be a common theme.

Nissan Aus didn't even bother fixing it when 2 of my mates had the issue with their Z's. The head unit was replaced. Mine did it just after warranty expired. At first it was the passenger side (both front and rear). Then the driver's side occasionally. Then both. Then back to passenger side. I ended up using a FM tuner or tape to line-in converter with my iPod. I replaced it with a double DIN, and kept the amps and speakers stock, and haven't had issues since.

Edited by scathing
If I may make a suggestion before you rip the car apart looking for amps and shit, test something first.

When you're getting the problem while listening to a CD, flick over to the radio and see if it happens there (or any other audio source aside from the CD player if you have one). I get the feeling the problem is isolated to the CD player.

The 350Z Bose stereos have a known issue (with TSB I'm pretty sure, although I don't have it to hand) where the speakers intermittently drop out while playing CDs. It doesn't happen with the tape deck or tuner (or aux input for those cagey enough to figure out there was one), and it feels like a loose connection since hard accelerating/braking can start/stop the problem. US guys have complained about it, as have a few Australians I know. Since the Z and V share so many components, it could be a common theme.

Nissan Aus didn't even bother fixing it when 2 of my mates had the issue with their Z's. The head unit was replaced. Mine did it just after warranty expired. At first it was the passenger side (both front and rear). Then the driver's side occasionally. Then both. Then back to passenger side. I ended up using a FM tuner or tape to line-in converter with my iPod. I replaced it with a double DIN, and kept the amps and speakers stock, and haven't had issues since.

I think that's the exact reason!! When I play CD's like I mentioned above, the left side starts to cut out. Hard braking/accelerating does help the problem. I have tried to switch between the CD player and Radio and have found that it does not happen when I have the radio on. Hopefully installing a Dvd player with mp3 will work? Since it will be using the Aux setting? How else would you fix it ?

How else would you fix it ?

I dropkicked the Bose CD player into the bin, and installed an Alpine IVA-W202E.

Using the aux input should be OK, as the other two sources on my head unit (radio, tape) worked fine and I used interfaces to get my iPod to work.

Could this mean a 'Class Action' against B%SE?

Could B%SE prefer to compensate you all if you advertised in the media that...

a whole raft of people (SAUers undercover) were going to be present at a particular destination (after halfway thru a SAU Cruise) to...

SHOOT DEFECTIVE B%SE CAR AUDIO EQUIPMENT WITH A SHOTGUN !!!!!!!!

Wouldn't they prefer to pay you guys out than to LET THE SHOTGUN GO OFF!!!!! AND THE PUBLICITY THAT WOULD GET!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...