Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a premium coupe with Bose sound system as usual. Lately when going around corners the left speakers are dropping out. Now over some bumps the sound goes in and out. At first I thought it was just a loose speaker wire in the left hand door, but I have since realised the Left rear side speaker is doing the same thing, which I am guessing may have something to do with where the speaker wire plugs into the back of the stereo itself.

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions before I start pulling the dashboard to bits?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244823-bose-speaker-problem/
Share on other sites

two things there. the lock is a different probelm and a BITCH to change. about $300 for a new one ex japan.

the audio issue. look at the amplifer in the rear left corner of the boot. pull that out and down then look for dry joints. the radio does this as well but I have yet to see it.

the audio issue. look at the amplifer in the rear left corner of the boot. pull that out and down then look for dry joints. the radio does this as well but I have yet to see it.

Thanks for that Chris. I'll have a look at that. Now what is a "dry" joint?

Thanks for that Chris. I'll have a look at that. Now what is a "dry" joint?

If my year 10 electronics serves me correctly I believe it is something to do with fouled solder/contact points on the circuit board, either from wear and tear or from the factory

If my year 10 electronics serves me correctly I believe it is something to do with fouled solder/contact points on the circuit board, either from wear and tear or from the factory

or components that have worked loose due to vibration. considering how that amplifier is mounted I would point the problem there.

Dry joint, you need to re-heat the solder up and make sure it has continuity all the way through the joint.

If you are a bit unsure any good electrical component repair shop could do it fairly easily... or Chris I would think.

no probs. I'm between cars now (have another sedan due inthe morn) I'll take one of these amps out and take a few snaps of it for you.

if you do head down to see me - ring first.I'm not always here.

no probs. I'm between cars now (have another sedan due inthe morn) I'll take one of these amps out and take a few snaps of it for you.

if you do head down to see me - ring first.I'm not always here.

Yeah thanks.

I had a look at it this arvo, sure is a lot of wires going into the amp. Pulled out the plugs and had a look around, couldn't see anything obvious, but as a result of pulling it apart, I think the speakers down the left hand side are now sounding very ordinary (very little grunt) compared to the right hand side.

If I may make a suggestion before you rip the car apart looking for amps and shit, test something first.

When you're getting the problem while listening to a CD, flick over to the radio and see if it happens there (or any other audio source aside from the CD player if you have one). I get the feeling the problem is isolated to the CD player.

The 350Z Bose stereos have a known issue (with TSB I'm pretty sure, although I don't have it to hand) where the speakers intermittently drop out while playing CDs. It doesn't happen with the tape deck or tuner (or aux input for those cagey enough to figure out there was one), and it feels like a loose connection since hard accelerating/braking can start/stop the problem. US guys have complained about it, as have a few Australians I know. Since the Z and V share so many components, it could be a common theme.

Nissan Aus didn't even bother fixing it when 2 of my mates had the issue with their Z's. The head unit was replaced. Mine did it just after warranty expired. At first it was the passenger side (both front and rear). Then the driver's side occasionally. Then both. Then back to passenger side. I ended up using a FM tuner or tape to line-in converter with my iPod. I replaced it with a double DIN, and kept the amps and speakers stock, and haven't had issues since.

Edited by scathing
If I may make a suggestion before you rip the car apart looking for amps and shit, test something first.

When you're getting the problem while listening to a CD, flick over to the radio and see if it happens there (or any other audio source aside from the CD player if you have one). I get the feeling the problem is isolated to the CD player.

The 350Z Bose stereos have a known issue (with TSB I'm pretty sure, although I don't have it to hand) where the speakers intermittently drop out while playing CDs. It doesn't happen with the tape deck or tuner (or aux input for those cagey enough to figure out there was one), and it feels like a loose connection since hard accelerating/braking can start/stop the problem. US guys have complained about it, as have a few Australians I know. Since the Z and V share so many components, it could be a common theme.

Nissan Aus didn't even bother fixing it when 2 of my mates had the issue with their Z's. The head unit was replaced. Mine did it just after warranty expired. At first it was the passenger side (both front and rear). Then the driver's side occasionally. Then both. Then back to passenger side. I ended up using a FM tuner or tape to line-in converter with my iPod. I replaced it with a double DIN, and kept the amps and speakers stock, and haven't had issues since.

I think that's the exact reason!! When I play CD's like I mentioned above, the left side starts to cut out. Hard braking/accelerating does help the problem. I have tried to switch between the CD player and Radio and have found that it does not happen when I have the radio on. Hopefully installing a Dvd player with mp3 will work? Since it will be using the Aux setting? How else would you fix it ?

How else would you fix it ?

I dropkicked the Bose CD player into the bin, and installed an Alpine IVA-W202E.

Using the aux input should be OK, as the other two sources on my head unit (radio, tape) worked fine and I used interfaces to get my iPod to work.

Could this mean a 'Class Action' against B%SE?

Could B%SE prefer to compensate you all if you advertised in the media that...

a whole raft of people (SAUers undercover) were going to be present at a particular destination (after halfway thru a SAU Cruise) to...

SHOOT DEFECTIVE B%SE CAR AUDIO EQUIPMENT WITH A SHOTGUN !!!!!!!!

Wouldn't they prefer to pay you guys out than to LET THE SHOTGUN GO OFF!!!!! AND THE PUBLICITY THAT WOULD GET!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...