Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Getting a new rear wheel bearing for the R34. It seems no one has done this on these forums and written about it.

Can any one advise on if the bearings listed on ebay will also fit a R34? I will post the link.

I have already ordered from Victoria and fingers crossed it will work.

Can anyone confirm?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-SILV...rts_Accessories

The seller is 99% sure it will fit and tells me the shaft size, does anyone know the shaft size for GTT rear wheel?

Its meant to look like this

http://www.skylinepart.com/ekmps/shops/jap...es/img_1316.jpg

Anyone help?

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/
Share on other sites

Nissan are useless. Went from quotes between two places from $255 and $280 they would match it at the other place however.

Rockdale Nissan would not supply a product code and was anoying the shit out of me, however with a VIN Artarmon will match it, Thank god!

Anyway thanks to all who helped, Bearings aftermarket dont exist for the R34!

Cheers

Nathaniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4266253
Share on other sites

did you then click the find part number? Because thos numbers there arnt actual part numbers just a description, as they are both hubs for example.

You're right, i bollocks it up. Ignore previous post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4268697
Share on other sites

Got the Part number from nissan today (had to pay $255 to get it.. i.e buy the part before they would supply a code - have to love Nissan)

The part number supplied was correct, however a friend has installed it on his R34 and the bearing is the wrong size. He made a fitting to fit within it.

Looks like a giant game of shambles.. I am not looking forward to fitting it.

Thanks again for the help Kotter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4271958
Share on other sites

is 255 for both sides of the rear or just one?

jebus...

also why are you replacing them? i've never heard of the wheel bearings go in any skiz to date, unless they were smashed.

On a side note, make sure you correctly fit them. Buggered wheel bearings = wheel comes off

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4272056
Share on other sites

Just one.. Ball bearing in a housing rip off! Cant drive it like this tho!

Yeah they are buggered as atm .. So will have to put them in correctly.

I hit a curb, drive with bad camber and often use the handbrake.. this is why.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4272643
Share on other sites

had a front left go in my gtst. It's not uncommon. The front right in my s13 sounds like it isn't too healthy either.

They will all let go eventually. Add extra load (track work, big offset) and it will be sooner rather than later.

Seriously though. All the bearings in the car will most likely be manufactured by NSK. And all of their bearings have a number stamped on them. Take that number to any bearing supplier and they will be able to get the right one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4274166
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

from memory 38-40mm shaft i believe.

you should really replace both sides mate as if ones gone other wont be too far...... you can get a much cheaper price from bearing places than nissan as ntn supplies bearing for nissan so same thing just maybe diff part numbers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244969-wheel-bearings/#findComment-4358831
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...