Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Genuine Sale!

WRX MY98 built-date 05/98, white colour, 165KW ATW (more if needed) with dyno sheet

meticulous 3rd owner, all books, all receipts,

serviced regularly,accident free!

Car is pampered!!

80,000kms, RGB779, NEW reg till 09/04 - $28,200 obo.

** or $27,000 without gauges **

!!! $26k with standard wheels now!!!

Open to REASONABLE OFFERS!!!

In Melbourne, SE suburbs.

http://www.pbase.com/rexwrx/wrx98

Call 0411673005 or email [email protected]

Exterior

========

- Genuine STi rear spoiler

- All colour-coded white

- Genuine STi clear rear lights

- Replica 22B style front bumper

Rolling-stock

=============

- Rays Engineering Volks TE-37, 17"x7" rims with Bridgestone R-rated tyres

- Apexi T-Max struts (adjustable dampers) with Apexi lowered sports springs

- Whiteline 22/24mm front-sway bars and 24mm adjustable sway bars, both with heavy duty mounts

- Whiteline Anti-lift Kit

- Whiteline Camber-Kit

- Cusco Front and Rear strut bars, adjustables

Brakes

=======

- Genuine 4-piston STi calipers with Comp9s pads (FRONT)

- DBA 5000 slotted rotors with aluminium hats (FRONT)

- Goodridge Braided Lines (FRONT)

- DBA slotted/crossed-drilled rotors with RB74 pads (REAR)

Engine,Drivetrain,& ECU

================================

- HKS Type-S Front Mount Intercooler Kit, with waterspray

- HKS Mushroom air-filter

- Autronic Plug-and-Play Computer with anti-lag setup

- Apexi Hybrid VF22/23 Turbo

- Trust Full 3" turbo-back exhaust

- Walbro Upgraded fuel-pump rated 400HP

- Lightened and balanced flywheel

- Heavy duty Button clutch

- Blitz blow-off valve

Interior

=============

** Optional Gauges **

- Apexi EL2 Gauges: Boost, Exhaust Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp (All have playback modes, max-reading,etc)

- Short-shift (adjustable)

there's no body kit, other than the original STi wings. everything else is colour coded.

as for the front bar, it has to be 22B style front bar because of the Front Mount intercooler.

i need to sell the car, and it's an excellent car with CLEAN history!!

I've pampered this car too much and sadly, i've to sell it now.

anyone interested, please feel free to come and have a ook....

MUST SELL!

thank you guys.

i just need everyone to pass on this message to those whom you know who is after a WRX, modified WRX to b particular.

i've had plenty of queries, but only one serious offer. Though, in the end the person pulled out as well due to his budget constraints...but he had come a long way from WA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...