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Hi guys,

Im interested in buying a R34 GTT near the beginning of next year. I'm looking for a completely stock R34 coupe. Is it cheaper to import one or to get one here? (I live in Perth). I have looked at the For Sale sections of this forum and also in the AutoTrader and Quokka, but every skyline has been modded!! What kind of price would I be looking at for a Stock R34 Gtt and how common are they to find? I haven't searched too much as of yet because I'm not getting one until next year. I just want one that hasn't been thrashed (hence no mods), because I don't have pocket loads of money for maintenance and repairs. I love the R34 and really want one. More mods = more money needed.

Also, does anyone know a yard dealer that comes across the R34's regularly? and one that is trustworthy?

Edited by Deutscher
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You must be one in a million to not want a modded car. I have an R33 that is stock and can't sell it atm, seems everyone wants the mods.

Just have a look at some of the importers, talk to them and buy the best value car you can find.

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You must be one in a million to not want a modded car. I have an R33 that is stock and can't sell it atm, seems everyone wants the mods.

Just have a look at some of the importers, talk to them and buy the best value car you can find.

Haha. The reason I don't want mods is because It kind of gives a indication on how the car was driven and also, If I do mod the car in the future, I want to choose the parts myself and get the things done that I want to.

Does anyone have a indication on the price for a Non-modded R34 GTT would be? I've seen modded ones go from 15k to 25k, I would be presuming a non-modded one would go for cheaper?

Also which would be the better route? importing or buying in perth? I've never imported before so I'd be new to the whole lot and it sounds complicated and can't physically check the car out myself before purchase etc. So kinda wondering if it outweighs the extra costs of having one in perth already etc.

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Once you start modding the car you are not going to even get close to the value of the mods back when you sell it, so an un-modded car will generally not be much cheaper. We are talking generally here and there are exceptions, it really just comes down to what someone is prepared to pay for the car.

If you try to do the import yourself it is really complicated but if you go to one of the importers just tell them what you want and they will source you the closest car to your requirements. Personally with the exchange rate the way it is at the moment an import would be fairly expensive.

I'm with you as far as buying unmodded so if you do chose to go down that path you can choose what you want done yourself (reason I bought an unmodded GTR V-spec). The only disadvantage of this is the cost, I've spent upwards of $10 grand in my head already (exhaust, turbos, ECU, suspension, oil cooler) and I haven't even thought about engine internals yet.

From what I have seen you will have a bit of trouble finding an unmodded car so maybe an importer would be the way to go. Hth

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Click on Autoworx on my sig mate, it leads you to their site.

I bought my car in mid 2007 and I'm stoked! I got an R34 GT-T manual, turbo sedan for 26k, you could probably find something similar for a few grand less, man/turbo coupes can also be found marginally cheaper than man/turbo sedans due to availability being much greater.. Try to grab one that has done around 60,000 - 90,000, once you look into the 100k+ zone you're going to get a car that is on the wrong side of 'wear and tear'..

Few things to look for:

- Have a good look over the car, don't get too giddy, check for any panel dents/scuffs and other general damage.

- Check rims, either stock or aftermarket, make sure they are in good nick with little to no gutter rash or deep markings.

- Interior, have a good look, the carpets should be in good order, seats should have minimal wear, the steering wheel and shifter are often tell tale signs that the odo might've been tampered with. Just keep a keen eye out for general 'wear and tear'... Also check around the centre console for scuff marks and abrasions..

- In general, keep a look out for rust or signs of surface rust, hot spots are the top of the suspension mounts under the bonnet, the rear brake light (the one mounted within the bootlid), behind the rear wheels, and most skylines don't have mudflaps of any sort, also, check for weld marks whilst you're looking under the bonnets, on my car, the weld lines are the ones that have rusted first. My rust is minor, but it is best to deal with it before it becomes a major problem.. :(

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Once you start modding the car you are not going to even get close to the value of the mods back when you sell it, so an un-modded car will generally not be much cheaper. We are talking generally here and there are exceptions, it really just comes down to what someone is prepared to pay for the car.

If you try to do the import yourself it is really complicated but if you go to one of the importers just tell them what you want and they will source you the closest car to your requirements. Personally with the exchange rate the way it is at the moment an import would be fairly expensive.

I'm with you as far as buying unmodded so if you do chose to go down that path you can choose what you want done yourself (reason I bought an unmodded GTR V-spec). The only disadvantage of this is the cost, I've spent upwards of $10 grand in my head already (exhaust, turbos, ECU, suspension, oil cooler) and I haven't even thought about engine internals yet.

From what I have seen you will have a bit of trouble finding an unmodded car so maybe an importer would be the way to go. Hth

MMMMMMMMM so jealous!! RB26, my dream engine. If I go importing route I'll get a company to do it for me. But they don't do everything do they? like register the car etc. and It takes awhile for the car to actually get here etc. Or do they give you a bottom line price and it's a drive home situation? Whats the ETA once the car is found? I'm only 20 and at uni, so I can't have a car that is heavily modded for 2 reasons, 1. will cost too much to run while on part time job and 2. No insurance company will insure me !! LOL

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Click on Autoworx on my sig mate, it leads you to their site.

I bought my car in mid 2007 and I'm stoked! I got an R34 GT-T manual, turbo sedan for 26k, you could probably find something similar for a few grand less, man/turbo coupes can also be found marginally cheaper than man/turbo sedans due to availability being much greater.. Try to grab one that has done around 60,000 - 90,000, once you look into the 100k+ zone you're going to get a car that is on the wrong side of 'wear and tear'..

Few things to look for:

- Have a good look over the car, don't get too giddy, check for any panel dents/scuffs and other general damage.

- Check rims, either stock or aftermarket, make sure they are in good nick with little to no gutter rash or deep markings.

- Interior, have a good look, the carpets should be in good order, seats should have minimal wear, the steering wheel and shifter are often tell tale signs that the odo might've been tampered with. Just keep a keen eye out for general 'wear and tear'... Also check around the centre console for scuff marks and abrasions..

- In general, keep a look out for rust or signs of surface rust, hot spots are the top of the suspension mounts under the bonnet, the rear brake light (the one mounted within the bootlid), behind the rear wheels, and most skylines don't have mudflaps of any sort, also, check for weld marks whilst you're looking under the bonnets, on my car, the weld lines are the ones that have rusted first. My rust is minor, but it is best to deal with it before it becomes a major problem.. :(

All great points there mate.

The importer can look after the compliance issues for you and I am pretty sure they look after the registration as well ( correct me if I'm wrong as I haven't bought through an importer )

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All Good points above,

To be honset dude Check Easten States! you can pick up nice cars for cheap i found mine on Carsales.com.au

I sent it over all up it cost me like 24gs For a rare r34 gtt 4 dr came with no mods besidse the bodykit and leather inteior Low kms as it was a new egnine swap.

i have spent alot on it now to get it where it is!

even if you find one from oversea's they are so called UNmodded they all prob been modded just parts takin off and sold!

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Click on Autoworx on my sig mate, it leads you to their site.

I bought my car in mid 2007 and I'm stoked! I got an R34 GT-T manual, turbo sedan for 26k, you could probably find something similar for a few grand less, man/turbo coupes can also be found marginally cheaper than man/turbo sedans due to availability being much greater.. Try to grab one that has done around 60,000 - 90,000, once you look into the 100k+ zone you're going to get a car that is on the wrong side of 'wear and tear'..

Few things to look for:

- Have a good look over the car, don't get too giddy, check for any panel dents/scuffs and other general damage.

- Check rims, either stock or aftermarket, make sure they are in good nick with little to no gutter rash or deep markings.

- Interior, have a good look, the carpets should be in good order, seats should have minimal wear, the steering wheel and shifter are often tell tale signs that the odo might've been tampered with. Just keep a keen eye out for general 'wear and tear'... Also check around the centre console for scuff marks and abrasions..

- In general, keep a look out for rust or signs of surface rust, hot spots are the top of the suspension mounts under the bonnet, the rear brake light (the one mounted within the bootlid), behind the rear wheels, and most skylines don't have mudflaps of any sort, also, check for weld marks whilst you're looking under the bonnets, on my car, the weld lines are the ones that have rusted first. My rust is minor, but it is best to deal with it before it becomes a major problem.. :banana:

Hi, thx for the heads up. With the KM's, What is the engine life on these cars? Every skyline I've saw in FS has ~100,000 or less.. I own a 96 VS commodore and It's done ~220,000 and runs a charm. IT just looks like once they hit ~100k kms they sell up lol. Just wondering if there was a reason or coincidence.

I have read the DIY section and it's got a thread about what to look for when buying a skyline, I've read through the 3 pages and its very imformative, although I'll still get a RAC guy to check out the car to be safe :( (I don't trust myself).

Also, I've had a look at AUTOWORX and also other import yards, and their prices are really expensive compared to private sellers. I know that yards are always more than private but I didn't think by that much. There's a nice R34 GTT coupe Auto for sale on Autotrader for $15,500, which if in WA, would be a car for me.

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Ultimately, autos in Skylines (R32s to R34s) are simply rubbish, I mean, best to test drive a few and find out for yourself, this is merely my opinion. RAC check is a must, no matter how confident you are, good to see you want to get it done anyways! :banana:

Seriously, Nissan petrol engines (RB's, CA's, SR's) are all pretty nuggety bits of gear, 115,000km and my little beast it ticking over a charm. No way you'd have to even contemplate opening up the engine before 250,000km, even then, you'd be lucky if you've even taken off the cam covers. Although, when buying, make sure you get a compression test done, and make sure the spark plugs and coil-packs are in good order, lol, I had 2 coil-packs go when me and my old man took my car for a test drive! :)

If you are wanting to get an Auto, Autoworx have got some V35's for sale, they cost not much more than R34's and are much better all-rounders, fair enough they aren't turbo, but the 3.5 litre engine has enough balls to get you from A to B with relative ease. Not having a turbo is also a bonus for insurance, they skin you for anything with forced induction. Plus if you've got your heart set on an auto, the automatic transmissions in the new Skylines are much superior to the older type from what I've heard/read.

Private sales may be cheaper, but it is the little things that make a big difference when buying from an importer/caryard.. Warranty is a big one, RAC checks are much easier taken place when a car is at the dealership, like I said, I had a couple of coil-packs fail when I test drove a car, if that were to happen on your way home from a private sale.... Too bad buddy, you break you buy, another $300 to throw over to Japan... :(

Edited by Marco-R34GTT
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go to Imports101 and speak to Danny... import one, hopefully he can find you a bargain now that auction houses aren't getting as many bids because of the Aussie $ sucking balls...

and there's nothing wrong with buying one that only has an exhaust and air filter... *hint hint* no boost controller or supporting mods with an engine still going strong means it must be reliable, if you're interested, give me a pm

:(

good luck mate, though i must say...

more standard one's will generally be more expensive as they 'should' be more reliable blah blah blah...

in WA the market value for a 2 door, manual and turbo would be around 26k

non turbo i've seen very low at around 12k but there's no use in getting an R34 that's non-turbo... i don't like auto's and 4 doors in my honest opinion don't look as nice...

auto/4 door/non-turbo all cheaper than the total opposite if that makes any sense, once again, good luck with your search mate

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This is the kind of car I'm looking at (http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/Used-Cars/Sports-Performance-Cars/AdNumber=TP000659941?BackToResult=true). 1998 Skyline R34 GT-T Tiptronic. Selling for $15,500... over east unfortunately. Does this look dodgey to you guys? I'm asking because everyone is talking about these $20k+ prices and I've found a couple around the $16K price, and around that price is my limit :ph34r: .

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as i mentioned in my above post... automatics and 4 doors are generally a lot cheaper than 2 doors and manuals...

keep looking and you'll know what i'm talking about...

also, if you're not sure as to the difference in the looks of the 4 door and 2 door...

look at the front fenders as well as the tail-lights, GTT 2 door's front fenders flare out as opposed to the GTT 4 door and the rear tail-lights in the 2 door have the indicator light in the centre light whereas the 4 door has indicator strips underneath the 4 lights which also makes the 4 lights on the 4 door smaller too

Edited by hoony
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Buddy best thing is to drive a couple of them and see what suits you. I love maunals and driven them all my life, but due to my mum havin to drive my car sometimes and when movin cars in the driveway, its much easier havin an Auto. Like i said i love manuals but theres nothin wrong imo about the semi auto's there fun and handy, ask some people with auto GTT's there not slow. Just dont get a non turbo like I did with the first 34. Test the cars out! over east u have more variety hence the cheapness, the down side tho is u cant always see everything, get one u feel is good inspected. ur lookin at 1200-2000k transport. try import places to see how the dollar sets u back. At the end of the day you get what u pay for. sometimes its worth paying a lil extra for quality. just remember 9 times out of 10 cheap cars a cheap cos somethin isnt right.

Just dont get impatient, it should be a fun time lookin for a car and u dont want to be stuck with somethin u'll have trouble sellin if u dont like it fully.

Goodluck!!!

Edited by 1R34SON
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driver/owner of modified vehicle is more likely to thrash or 'spiritedly' drive the car as opposed to the driver/owner or a stock standard car

main reason for this is because the car would generally be more capable/fun to drive

everyone knows the car doesn't have to be modified to be thrashed, but realistically who really wants to own and thrash a standard Skyline without changing anything on it, whether it be mechanically or cosmetically?

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my opinion, define the word 'thrashed' if u want to buy a performance car or a car with a turbo it will have been driven at one stage or another by someone who has put their foot down. isnt that half the reason u buy a performance car?

in saying that there are of course endless arguments. dont let no mods vs mods be a deciding factor to wether or not a car has been 'thrashed'

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