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unfortunately that is what sellers are like out there

did you go to many used car places? i have been told so many lies from second hand dealerships that its not funny. you basically have to assume that the car is as you see it when you go look at it and make your own judgement as you can never trust others

i know you don't want to hear this, but despite filling you with BS, the seller is not to blame for you buying a dud car - you had every opportunity to have it checked out by a mechanic prior to buying

but look on the bright side, its not a lot of money and although you have learned the hard way you will never make this mistake again in your life and all your future car purchases will benefit from your experience

Soz bit of topic. Hey beer baron your dead right about the oil prob trapped in head at high rpm & g corning remember the Red R GTR superlap how was my

oil control prob. Fucen oil everywhere lol catch can filled up in under3 laps lol plus there was an oil return from the catch to intake so ya guess where the oil ended up plus all thru my engine bay lol. but thank god prob nearly solved cam cover baffles as well as drain form back of head & a massive catch can lets see now if i get blowby lol.

mate take the option of the $1500 R33 GTR bottom end that the guy replied in this thread.

add another $1K for your mechanic to do the job, you are out of pocket by $2.5K. not $5K for a wrecker motor. or $6K min from "that company name you mentioned before which I can get someone to tell you stories about"...

If you plan to keep car, then while the motor is out, do some or all the oil mods that are very well documented in this forum (search for the words "SYDNEYKID+OIL+CONTROL" to find a little thread about it)

depending on how many of them you do, the cost will be small or huge.

If I were you I would..

buy said R33 GTR bottom end.

while the engine is out, order some oil restrictors, put them in, fit the back of head drain, and the R33 bottom end has the better crank collar etc..

put it all back together and sell it.

at least then you can say that you are selling a decent car which has had some of the oil control mods done and with receipts.

with used cars, it's been said again and again.

Buyer beware.

The seller did what he had to do to sell his car.

the price was too good to be true and always is.

the fact is, once fixed like I said above, you still have a GTR that will be OK and has set you back a total of $15K max.

to be honest you must be mad buying a $11,000 32 GTR. It costs so much to turn an average (or more for a poor) GTR into a nice GTR that it really is worth paying extra for a nice restored R32 GTR to start with. to take a GTR and restore it nicely (new interior bits, replace all underbody bushes, replace suspension and brakes, do the diff, transfer case, rebuild engine, new turbos, ecu, wheels, tyres, maybe some bodywork, paint etc) will cost $50K +. but you can pick up a really mint 32 GTR with all that done these days for $35K or less.

GTR's are very expensive to run, modify and maintain. I would hazard a guess here and say that your GTR will be up for sale very soon....

The GTR that i purchased is actually in damb good condition for what i paid(even though i need to rebuild the engine). it needs no work to interior, suspension, wheels or just about anything else for that matter.

Your guess about me selling the car soon would be correct, as that was the intention before i bought the car. i have no intention of spending 30-50K on this car as i'm going to purchase an R34 GTR V-specII in the not too distant future.

Thanks for the advice and correcting me, now i fully understand the problem.

unfortunately that is what sellers are like out there

did you go to many used car places? i have been told so many lies from second hand dealerships that its not funny. you basically have to assume that the car is as you see it when you go look at it and make your own judgement as you can never trust others

i know you don't want to hear this, but despite filling you with BS, the seller is not to blame for you buying a dud car - you had every opportunity to have it checked out by a mechanic prior to buying

but look on the bright side, its not a lot of money and although you have learned the hard way you will never make this mistake again in your life and all your future car purchases will benefit from your experience

I purchased the car 3 hours from my home town so i didn't really think it would be easy for me to get the engine checked out, i do understand where your coming from but the seller did tell me that the engine was fine, it was covered up well enough to fool me. I keep saying the same thing to everyone "if someone sells you something and they say it is all good, but it's not then i figure that in any situation they have ripped you off by not telling you the truth".

Thanks for your advice and i'm sure i won't make the same mistake again.

Cheers mate

mate take the option of the $1500 R33 GTR bottom end that the guy replied in this thread.

add another $1K for your mechanic to do the job, you are out of pocket by $2.5K. not $5K for a wrecker motor. or $6K min from "that company name you mentioned before which I can get someone to tell you stories about"...

If you plan to keep car, then while the motor is out, do some or all the oil mods that are very well documented in this forum (search for the words "SYDNEYKID+OIL+CONTROL" to find a little thread about it)

depending on how many of them you do, the cost will be small or huge.

If I were you I would..

buy said R33 GTR bottom end.

while the engine is out, order some oil restrictors, put them in, fit the back of head drain, and the R33 bottom end has the better crank collar etc..

put it all back together and sell it.

at least then you can say that you are selling a decent car which has had some of the oil control mods done and with receipts.

with used cars, it's been said again and again.

Buyer beware.

The seller did what he had to do to sell his car.

the price was too good to be true and always is.

the fact is, once fixed like I said above, you still have a GTR that will be OK and has set you back a total of $15K max.

Thanks for the great advice, i will cirtainly be considering it.

That is awful, what you meant to say is that the seller is not entirely to blame but the percentage is like 80% the seller and 20% you; same as the terrorists hijacking the 9/11 planes are not to blame because airline security didnt pick up on the box cutters.

Jeeezuz someone getz tricked and all people do it say its your fault for not picking it up.

Thanks for the support, it realy makes me feel alot better about the whole situation when i get post's like this one.

Cheers mate :P

You only got yourself to blame man , My Friend picked up a R32 GTR For $10,000 With Half year rego first thing he done was compression test and full inspection cost him $200 Bucks but was well worth it. Car ended up being good , he got very lucky with that buy as guy was extremely desperate to sell , you learn from your mistakes ... every single car i buy i get compression tested and full mechanical inspection ....

  • 1 month later...
your advice on R32 oil system problems is a bit off mate. it has nothing to do with start up. there are a number of well documented shortcomings in ALL RB26 oil systems. if you had looked at this forum before buying your car you would have known about them. it has nothing to do with the engine pumping oil on start-up and it is in no way solved by an N1 oil pump.

The only part of this problem that is unique to R32s is that the oil pump drive flats on the crank are narrower than later model cranks. this can become a problem if it causes wear and possible failure of the oil pump gear.

the RB26 does have a problem with having too much oil trapped in the head but not at start up. this occurs at sustained high RPM and it's not so much how much/fast it pumps but the fact that the factory oil return galleries are insufficient to return oil to the sump quickly enough. to combat this you should fit an oil feed restrictor in the head, and machine out the oil return galleries, and if you are considering track use even fit an external -10 or -12 oil return from the back of the head to the sump.

all model RB26s also have a problem with oil surge under hard cornering/high rpm. when you have a lot of oil trapped in the head, and not much in the sump, and you are pulling some decent corneing G then oil can be low enough that the pick-up is no longer sucking up oil, but air instead. it's then very easy to damage the engine in a second.

to be honest you must be mad buying a $11,000 32 GTR. It costs so much to turn an average (or more for a poor) GTR into a nice GTR that it really is worth paying extra for a nice restored R32 GTR to start with. to take a GTR and restore it nicely (new interior bits, replace all underbody bushes, replace suspension and brakes, do the diff, transfer case, rebuild engine, new turbos, ecu, wheels, tyres, maybe some bodywork, paint etc) will cost $50K +. but you can pick up a really mint 32 GTR with all that done these days for $35K or less.

GTR's are very expensive to run, modify and maintain. I would hazard a guess here and say that your GTR will be up for sale very soon....

is there any different compare r32 and r33 gtr? no - vspec? thanks

You bought a GT-R for $11k....I hope you do not expect sympathy.

Imagine the host of other problems that are going to pop up when the engine is replaced... assuming it has not been treated well (given the engine is fooked) g/box prolly stuffed, diffs half dead... fun fun.

Good luck with all that.

Bargain!

for that reason i did not buy a r32 gtr as my first turbo car, the head aches of the damage been done already were to scary to think of :S

All that is true if you buy a shit one yes. But if you buy a shit example of any car you are always going to have headaches.

For reasons described above, thats why I went a GTS-4 rather than GT-R as my first import, I don't think i'll even consider buying one until I've got 10k or so lying around for potential engine rebuild / other major work which needs undertaking.

Yeah ive got no sympathy for you sorry. You brought a car at far under market price and expected it to be fine because someone said so then come and here and look for sympathy.

Buy the 1500 block and bolt it up to your head and then get rid of the car or enjoy it. Id hazard a guess and say the rest of the car is verging on rooted as well. How many kms has it done?

If you cant afford 6k to fix the engine id love to know how yours going to afford a 34GTR

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