Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi peeps,

to my understanding there are 3 types of set up you can have for twin turbos,

1) two small turbo running simultaneously producing more power

2) two small turbos, running at different peak boost ( i think I forgot)

3) one small turbo and one large turbo, so that the smaller one helps with reducing turbo lag

I read this long long time ago and can't remmeber which website its from, if someone can refer me to a website.

which one is the GTR? and what turbo size is it running?

cheers peep

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245491-gtr-twin-turbo-size-and-setup/
Share on other sites

to my understanding there are 3 types of set up you can have for twin turbos,

1) two small turbo running simultaneously producing more power

2) two small turbos, running at different peak boost ( i think I forgot)

3) one small turbo and one large turbo, so that the smaller one helps with reducing turbo lag

You forgot the 4th option... two freakin' massive hairdryers producing loads of serious tire-shredding power! :D

Edited by Samon
You forgot the 4th option... two freakin' massive hairdryers producing loads of serious tire-shredding power! :P

well, two large turbos will have running simultaneously will have the same setup as option 1. there are only 3 set up I'm quite sure

there is no such thing as option 2 mate. you cannot have 2 turbos running at different boost.

there are 2 types of twin turbo set-ups.

sequential

parallel

sequential set-ups have one small turbo and one larger turbo. the small turbo spools first and once the larger turbo is in it's efficiencey range it comes into play. these set-ups are quite complex and require some tricky valves etc to operate properly. My FD RX-7 has this set-up. when done properly they are quite good. the RX-7 pulls strongly from 2,000rpm, then it starts to taper off at 4500rpm as the small turbo is running out of puff, then at 5,000rpm the big turbo kicks in pulling hard to redline.

parallel set-ups use two equally sized turbos running together. they both run the same boost level. this is the GTR type set-up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...