Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It just occured to me the other night that i noticed the seatbelt icon on my dash(little dude with the seatbelt-on sign) doesn't come on anymore...

cos normally when the driver's side seatbelts aren't buckled in the icon will light up etc etc....now nothing at all....

Anyone had this happen to them? Any ideas what's going on?

thanks;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24551-seatbelt-icon-disappears/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by skyliner33wa

i thought that the seatbelt fastened feature was removed and seatbelts replaced during compliance?

Kris

No only the rear belts are changed. Front ones are factory. Yea check the electrical connection under the seat and then the bulb in the Dash. If that doesn't fix it,,,give up it's not worth working out.

Neil.

Originally posted by ndr

No only the rear belts are changed. Front ones are factory. Yea check the electrical connection under the seat and then the bulb in the Dash. If that doesn't fix it,,,give up it's not worth working out.

Neil.

Pretty sure mine has been changed then, i have had 2 skylines and both times no seatbelt light, are their supposed to be wires, or a connector coming from the seatbelt?

cheers

kris

i want the light!! you guys reckon there would be a way to hook it up?

has anyone check their belts with those from a wreckers without change made!! see if those plugs do actually plug into the clips?

I want the factory seatbelts! :) Well at least for the front, who cares about the rear passengers :)

Incidentally, even though my car was registered as a 4 seater, the compliancers nicely left the middle factory seatbelt in place, but under the seat. The previous owner probably didn't even know they were there :)

Does anyone know if the S14/15 200SX front seatbelts are the same as the R33's? It might be a good way to get some nicer seatbelts legally. Ones that use the seatbelt light, retract properly, and have that plastic thing to hold the belt off your shoulder.

Sorry guy's I should have worded my reponse a little better,,,,what I meant to say is the Fronts have to be changed as well,,,but It's quite legal for the Compliancer to buy New Factory Belts and install them. Thats how most of us still have the light working on the dash. Go check the white tag on your front belts,,,,Mine has Genuine Nissan belts with a built date on it,,being 2001.

Neil.

Originally posted by JimX

Ndr, how much are the new belts worth? Probably several hundred each ;)

JimX,,,I have no idea but mine have 2001 stamped on them and they have to be factory belts,,,.I'm thinking though if the tongue of the actual belt is the same as the buckles (this is what turns the light on and off) then you would only need to buy the buckle. Why not pop out to Justjap and ask them,,,,they might/should have buckles,,,you could try one.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...