Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

cheers for the post,

tried the bleed door, seems to operate properly. i'm guessing its the compressor but i'm unsure how to fix myself and unsure who to take it to. i have a spare compressor off the old block but that needs a re-con.

cheers,

craig.

I just read my post, nice typos lol woops.

Anyway,

If it's not clicking/engaging then you'll likely need an air-con place to check it out. Ask a few mates see if they know or can recommend anyone and always ask for a quote before any work takes place. Be sure to clarify if the quote is free also.

Good luck,

hi i have a gtst, had a new motor put in regased the A/C and its still blowing hot air.

had a thought the compressor maybe shot because it doesnt "click" but would like some advise if anyone has had a similar problem.

Hey mate im a Refrigeration mechanic by trade i had the same problem as you on my R32 i got a hole in my condensor and lost all my R12 refrig is yours R12 or R134a also btw but with mine it was the climet control telling the heater to come on theres a heater solinoid behind ya head on ya heater pipes on the firewall in the engine bay repace that and ya should be sweet fixed mine anyways mate cheers ben

  • 2 weeks later...
no other idea's anyone?

Run the climate control diagnostics first to see if any sensors are playing up. The compressor is switched on via the ECU which receives a signal from the climate control. I had the intake air temp sensor fail in my R32 (it read below 0degs) so the climate wouldn't switch the AC. Solution was a 10c resistor which corrected the sensor and allowed the AC to switch on.

If the sensors all check out ok, you will the need to check the pressure switch (in front of the radiator on drivers side) which protects the compressor when the gas pressure is low. Continuity across the switch will imply good gas pressure. If the pressure is low the switch will be open and won't feed power to the compressor.

Check the DIY section for running the climate diagnostics.

Hope this helps.

if wanting to do a quick check to rule out some main parts

1. check to see that when the a\c is turned on the entire face of the compressor spins

2. if first test is passed there are two hoses entering the firewall behind the stock turbo one above the other switch off and plug them off and join with a small pipe and hose clamps.

test the a\c again. if it cools you can rule out the compressor, the condensor, the dryer, the need for gas and a few other things.

if not you will have to resort to the previous problems stated in the posts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...