Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was surfing the net and came across a site that has billet wheels and reading though the page and they can do cutom offsets so would be perfect if anyone was putting a wide body kit on there car

if you want a look the site is showwheels.com.au and apprently they do cutom offsets too suit any car

hope it helps anyone looking for this sort of thing cool.gif

LOL signed today.. posted five min later.. and advertising already.. if all this is "apparent" you should post after you've found out..

And if you are "Mr Showwheels" then just say so.. :D

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
LOL signed today.. posted five min later.. and advertising already.. if all this is "apparent" you should post after you've found out..

And if you are "Mr Showwheels" then just say so.. :D

I'd rather get HREs, thanks. Amazing quality multi-piece wheels from the US, with a known reputation. TheTunersGroup are the Aussie distributors, and they've had the courtesy of becoming a vendor on here.

I've seen ads for Show Wheels from car mags and stuff, but I haven't heard anything about them. Their style suits old-school muscle cars and 'rods as well, rather than more modern Japanese cars.

most 3 piece Work wheels can be custom ordered to any width and offset you want (or you can buy regular ones cheap, take them to a shop, have them taken apart, and put wider outer bands that Work sells separately on them, to bring the width to perfect fitment).

That's how I got my 18"x12" with -22 offset on my widebody. Perfect fit, no spacers.

Oh rubbish, even Volk custom sizes are generally between $1100-2k a rim. Nothing like $20k.

Volk, SSR, Work, AME and others will all do custom sizes within certain ranges.

Not to mention Simmons, ROH....

That said the KWC range on Showwheels site looks quite reasonable. I can imagine with satin or painted centres some would almost look classy.

Edited by floody
Oh rubbish, even Volk custom sizes are generally between $1100-2k a rim. Nothing like $20k.

Volk, SSR, Work, AME and others will all do custom sizes within certain ranges.

Not to mention Simmons, ROH....

That said the KWC range on Showwheels site looks quite reasonable. I can imagine with satin or painted centres some would almost look classy.

post-12772-1227431640_thumb.jpg

^^Presumably in exchange for $20,000 and your first born child :P

7.5"x18" for starters, got em cheap at about $1000 for the set, got em pulled apart at a local wheel repairer a couple of streets from my house for $200. Each band cost about $700 for the genuine stuff. There was a shop down in Phillip Island who was gonna mill out some custom width aluminium alloy outers for a lot cheaper but something about Porche owners taking preferrance and me running out of patience saw me going the genuine route. Got the outer bands out of Work Wheels USA, who are a lot more competent that the guys that represent Work in Australia (or claim to be sole distributors anyways). The wheel shop then refitted the outer bands and resealed it including welding and gave em back. So all up about $3500ish for fully genuine, scratchless rims. Much less than what some guys ask for sunken battleship fitment wheels on the forums.

I then turned around and sold the car and the wheels for a small fortune to some random kid who wanted a fully sick drift machine.

The End.

common_sense_god_damn_super_power.jpg

no im not mr showwheels and i thought people mite like to no about them so i posted it oon here cause a friends is a member of this forum :(

Oh yeah, and all the other forums you've posted this on too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...