Jump to content
SAU Community

How Long Does A Good/safe Dyno Tune Take?

AZZIF

By AZZIF,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

AZZIF Rookie

AZZIF

Posted
Posted

In the next couple of weeks I'm going to get my car tuned in Sydney.

I've already picked the tuner and run-in the engine.

I've been given the choice of two different tuning options.

I can leave it for just ONE day or get a more thorough tune, taking THREE days. Of course the longer tune covers more and costs more.

This car is a daily driver and will rarely be used on the track.

Mods are dump pipes, new turbos, Power FC, 600cc injectors and fuel pump rewire.

Is there any point in going for the three day dyno tune? Can I get a safe and strong tune in only one day?

Can anyone here say they got a benefit from going for the 3 day tune?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ask the tuner? 3 days sounds a bit extreme

you dont really need to do cold start, idle and hot start with the PFC they work out the box flawlessly

so if they come back saying they need to leave it over night for cold start, its not really needed

the only time i would approve that level of cost and time was if they did wideband on the road test

a dyno tune is great and all but the full picture is on the road wideband tuning

as it will knock differently on the street (engine load different) and light cruise touch up

while doing like 80kmh in 4th, 100kmh in 5th, 110kmh in 5th etc

nice and easy on the road with wideband

3 days on dyno - excessive

for that i would ask and expect every single IGN and INJ map number to be changed

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

depends on who the 3 day tune is with. some charge money for doing nothing, others spend lots of time on cold start and warmup, with a power fc thats not really needed.

I could tune that car and get it going good in under 2 hours.

as long as everything is setup, a pro tuner said to me yesterday which has really stuck, the setup is 95% of the tune, the dyno work is the easiest and fun part which really opened a can of worms for me. "if your on the dyno for longer then a hour or so then you have not got your setup right or you don't know what your doing" hmmm he is right

power fc = eliminate setup time because they are engineered for the particular car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dano4127 Veteran

dano4127

Posted
Posted

Yeah good tuner should be able to get a tune done provided there are no "dramas" in 2 hours

DrDrift has done a great tune from scratch with my new setup, I could only book him for 2 hours on the day when he was doing a Queensland trip and im sure he spent quite some time working out a couple of boost leaks (my fault) :)

PFC and 3 days for tuning is def excessive

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AZZIF Rookie

AZZIF

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah good tuner should be able to get a tune done provided there are no "dramas" in 2 hours

DrDrift has done a great tune from scratch with my new setup, I could only book him for 2 hours on the day when he was doing a Queensland trip and im sure he spent quite some time working out a couple of boost leaks (my fault) :(

PFC and 3 days for tuning is def excessive

Thanks for the replies guys.

The tuner has said that they will test the individual NISMO injectors (for spray pattern and flow) if I send them up before I get the car tuned. Then install them on the day.

As far as what the extra days in the tuning shop will cover... the tuner didn't say anything about road testing with wideband. All he said was that it would be a proper or peak tune. Would a wideband road tune really take that much longer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted

to me it sounds like he is trying to screw you out of some money for work not done.

if the car was there for 3 days how much actual time would they be working on your car? 1 hr per day?

what power are you aiming for?

unless you are over 400 rwkws i would say 3 hrs at a max

so maybe rethink your dyno choice for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AZZIF Rookie

AZZIF

Posted
  • Author
Posted
to me it sounds like he is trying to screw you out of some money for work not done.

if the car was there for 3 days how much actual time would they be working on your car? 1 hr per day?

what power are you aiming for?

unless you are over 400 rwkws i would say 3 hrs at a max

so maybe rethink your dyno choice for now.

I don't think the tuner is trying to say the car will be worked on for 3 days SOLID.

Most likely just two or three hours more than the main tuning session. It's just that those hours would be spent on the following days. Pretty sure he's not trying to rip me off, I just don't know if there's any "value" in that extra time. It's a daily driver with fairly common mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • Ghosty033
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By Ghosty033 · Posted

      curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...