Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have the following

1991 R32 GTS25 Dr (RB25DE series 1)

has amg 16" and a 2.5" exhasut.

when i brougt it i was told it cant be regersted due to the eng (im going to use it primarly as a track car)

but is there any way i can get it complianced so i can drive it on the road. as some of the events i would like to enter req the car be regersted. (dutton rally).

could i poserbly put a RB20DET in or RB30DE

brentt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245893-how-to-get-a-car-complianced/
Share on other sites

I assume your car is a r32 with the non-turbo r33 engine in it?

This car isn't eligible for compliance.

As a general rule, if the import approval isn't a SEVS one, it can never be complied either.

ok i have the following

1991 R32 GTS25 Dr (RB25DE series 1)

has amg 16" and a 2.5" exhasut.

when i brougt it i was told it cant be regersted due to the eng (im going to use it primarly as a track car)

but is there any way i can get it complianced so i can drive it on the road. as some of the events i would like to enter req the car be regersted. (dutton rally).

could i poserbly put a RB20DET in or RB30DE

brentt

Maybe ask VicRoads about possibly getting limited registration as a rally vehicle and the process you need to go through to achieve it, but as Dave has already said, normal registration as a road car can't happen.

that doesn't matter. the only thing that matters is what import approval it had when it was imported. that's what you need to find out. they were compliable under the old scheme, but the fact that we have had SEVS for a few years now and your car has still not been complied would mean it's very unlikely even if it had a valid import approval under the old scheme that they will allow it to be complied now all these years later. if it was imported as a race/rally car then yes you should be able to get conditional registration in your state, that is not a fedral/dotars thing though, you need to talk to vicroads about that one.

RB25, R32 GTS does not meet the power to weight criteria for SEVS approval and has no other features to get it in. hence it's not on the sevs list.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...