Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been used to driving hatches and waggons for a while, like 25 years.

Now I have quite a good MR30 for my daily drive I am thinking about fitting a rear wiper/washer.

Has any one attempted this? If so with what?

There are plenty of rice bowls at the wreckers from which to get parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/
Share on other sites

I have been used to driving hatches and waggons for a while, like 25 years.

Now I have quite a good MR30 for my daily drive I am thinking about fitting a rear wiper/washer.

Has any one attempted this? If so with what?

There are plenty of rice bowls at the wreckers from which to get parts.

on a sedan? im sure my mr30 hatch had one, and i know for sure my c210 coupe did. C211 sedan didnt though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4280906
Share on other sites

you will need a HR or DR30 import 4 door rear glass, and all the associated bits.

it is definitly possible, but really only way to do it is the factory bits from the imports....

lotsa mucking around thats for sure.

it woud be easy to set up a small 'spoiler' in the top of the rear window that deflects the airstream downwards to blast te water away.... alot easier i woul think than seeing if a rear glass can be removed without breaking!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4281688
Share on other sites

"you will need a HR or DR30 import 4 door rear glass, and all the associated bits".

Must be a 4 door import glass as nothing else fits.

Might be easier flying to the moon than finding the bits in Oz, but if I was attempting such an exercise, I would be trying to immitate the imports and get a hole cut in the bottom of the glass, but if it breaks your in more trouble than it's worth.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4282757
Share on other sites

MMMmmmmm. Seems abit difficult, although it is not a problem to drill a hole in the rear window.

The sedan has a nice louvre at the back and a stop light mounted on the parcel shelf.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4282750
Share on other sites

"you will need a HR or DR30 import 4 door rear glass, and all the associated bits".

Must be a 4 door import glass as nothing else fits.

Might be easier flying to the moon than finding the bits in Oz, but if I was attempting such an exercise, I would be trying to immitate the imports and get a hole cut in the bottom of the glass, but if it breaks your in more trouble than it's worth.

Cheers, D

Too true Dennis!

Something a bit more 'down-to earth' :P would be buying an import sedan - they can be had with L20ET, FJ20E and FJ20ET auto or manual and come with the aforementioned wiper

(what more could you want?!?!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4294002
Share on other sites

That's a voice from the past .......................................

You married that poor girl yet Ben?

Cheers, D

Excuse the OT...

When we last met at Wakefield Park the Stagea was 'something different' - now it's the family car!

:)

(yes we are married, with child)

Edited by BensDR30
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4294518
Share on other sites

Excuse the OT...

When we last met at Wakefield Park the Stagea was 'something different' - now it's the family car!

:)

(yes we are married, with child)

Name and pics please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246161-rear-wiper/#findComment-4294563
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...