Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

It shows another thing as well, not everything is shown night/day on a dyno sheet when talking circuit applications.

Plotted on graphs they might look very similar, however actually driving them on/off throttle is something else again

What would be very interesting is seeing the motors held at 5000rpm with no load then stomping on the loud pedal and comparing the curves that way.

I'm surprised no one does this as it would be a great way to demonstrate transient response. Obviously the same ramp rates and gearing would need to be used for it to be a useful comparison, but I don't think that would be too hard to do.

Edited by Rolls
  • 1 month later...

Gccg are fitting the TO4Z 63trim comp wheel into the GT3582r and are calling it a GT3566r , I guess this is mainly for the XR6 ford turbo engines as a up grade , But i was wondering if this turbo would be a good compromise between the Gt35r and the TO4z in giving the best of both worlds in both turbos , Garrett has just released the GTX3582r turbo so that also looks to be a option , closer to a TO4Z.

  • 7 months later...

I know its been a while since this thread was alive but i thought my results would spark up some debate again.

R34 GTT

RB26/30

Gt35r .82 rear

3.5" exhaust

exhaust side of head port matched and polished.

CP pistons

spool rods

9:1 comp

25psi

390.1rwkw

390rwkw.th.jpg

Nice result, which fuel?

believe it or not its on 98ron Shell Vpower =]

Never got a chance to test it on e85, especially after the twin 044 pumps and teflon fuel lines. Had a offer to buy it that i couldnt refuse. Deposit paid and the car picked up next week.

So sad =[

I never understood why people built cars like that and then sold them straight away, what is the point in spending all that money otherwise?

believe it or not its on 98ron Shell Vpower =]

Never got a chance to test it on e85, especially after the twin 044 pumps and teflon fuel lines. Had a offer to buy it that i couldnt refuse. Deposit paid and the car picked up next week.

So sad =[

These things make even more with aftermarket cams, a lad I know has made >400kw @ hubs on slightly less boost with an RB25/30 with a .82a/r GT3582R on 98 :)

  • 8 months later...

These things make even more with aftermarket cams, a lad I know has made >400kw @ hubs on slightly less boost with an RB25/30 with a .82a/r GT3582R on 98 :)

I never got to play with cams but judging by how efficient the setup was. Cams would of saw power everywhere throughout the rev range. Definitely worth while!

  • 3 years later...

I know its an old thread but I have a question with anyone that are or were running TO4Zs.

I am finding mine a bit oil blowy with a 1mm restrictor in a -4 oil feed line. Anyone have any issues running a 0.8mm or less restrictor. I am still on a run in tune with a 5k limiter and pushing 5+ bar engine oil pressure, so thinking might have to reduce the flow even more seeing that the zeds don't like anymore than 3 bar in their feed line. Any wisdom would be much appreciated.

Edited by XGTRX

I don't think you should run a restricter like normal gt turbo. I'm not running 1 on my t04z and I'm not having any problems

What size feed are you running, I am thinking maybe my -4 is to big

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...