Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, this has happened a few times now,

This time it went on for about 5 minutes straight,

I dont know what it is but its really loud and its coming from the engine bay some place....

It only happened when i turned it on, and when i drove for a bit it went away..

it just stops randomly

anyone have any idea what it is and how much it costs to fix? :|

Thanks

Hi, this has happened a few times now,

This time it went on for about 5 minutes straight,

I dont know what it is but its really loud and its coming from the engine bay some place....

It only happened when i turned it on, and when i drove for a bit it went away..

it just stops randomly

anyone have any idea what it is and how much it costs to fix? :|

Thanks

ok regardless what car it is...

its most likely either the belts for the power steering, altenator, water pump, air condition or watever.

i think the reason everyone is asking is that some cars have just 1 belt to drive them all....and some have seperate 1 for each.

try tightening it, each belt should have about 1/2" play/slack in movement after tightening.

and if that doesnt do it...it could be the pulleys for each of the mentioned above...the ball bearings may be worn.

a good way to test that, is get a long screw driver, a flat one preferably... put it on the big nut that holds the pulley to the motor...then put your ear on the end of the knob on the screw driver and you will hear excessive vibration on the faulty one. a good pulley will have a very smooth, feint grinding sound...

perhaps try it when u start ur car on cold...especially

yeah belts

i got greddy light weight pulleys and the squeal like a pig. have tried washing detergent and belt grip with not much success.

Might give the WD40 a go thou.

yeah happens mostly in the rain, is my car drivable or do i really need to get it fixxeD?

yes it should be drivable.

like we said, do some DIY before you go to your mechanic.

thats how people get ripped off that way.

say he tightens the belts, hes gonna charge you for service fee and his time.....1.5 hours or whatever.

look i would say do this;

1.) Use your finger and push down in the middle of the belts and push down and up... see how much movement is in it. (should be .5 of an inch)

2.) if it is lose, tighten it...if you car has a tensioner bolt. Check the belts with a torch, see if there is cracks.

3.) if it is tight to start with & is in good condition. do what i said with that screw driver, listen to each pulley and find the source of the problem.

4.) if one of the pulleys is noisy, you may want to get that replaced in the near future, spray some WD40 in the gap of the pulley pivot.

5.) there is a special can of "belt spray" if you go to super-cheap, repco or autobahn. it apparently should minimise noise in belts.

but personally i believe in replacing faulty parts, when things like that rattle or squeal, its a first sign of required attention rather than bodging things up with that spray.

try that and keep us posted.

im clueless about cars :sick:

you in melb you can help me out? :)

Save my piggy bank :D

gee dude......i typed all that and u didnt understand

lol

nah unfortunately im not

in sydney australia.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...