Jump to content
SAU Community

Please give advice, i wanted to buy a GT-t R34...

[Tommy_R34]
 Share

Recommended Posts

[Tommy_R34] Rookie

[Tommy_R34]

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, i wanted to buy this Skyline GT-t R34 but i don't know if it's worth the prices coz i don't really know how much is in the market so please help me out, i'll describe it to you guys, here we go : Nissan Skyline R34 GT-t late 98 Manual, 6 cylinder Turbo, Black, 54000kms, Nismo body kits, GREDDY Trust front mount intercooler, Blitz BOV, Blitz boost controller SBC ID2 , Kenwood VCD TV with TV Turner, Blitz air filter, Blitz turbo timer, Blitz Gauge, Momo Steering wheels, Flash Point Alarm, Turbo Back Exhaust, 6 months rego and selling for $34,000.... it has backfire and then a little bit smoke came out but when the car is park and put on neutral i revs up and have no smoke, is it okay or there is something wrong? please give me your advice if this price is good for this car and it looks really much like the photo i attached.......many thanx.....

Parag0n Mentor

Parag0n

Posted
Posted

HI Tommy,

That price is pretty decent for a R34 GT-T and it has quite a few aftermarket items, maybe you should take it in for a service and get the misfires sorted out ?

Where does the smoke come out ? the exhaust ? the engine ?

franks Veteran

franks

Posted
Posted

this is a really good price!

black smoke coming out of an exhaust is not normal, its overfueling. with my stock ecu in my 34gtt i never had black smoke coming out of it on wide open throttle.

accident damage. hrm..its very rare to find a car (especially an import) without accident damage.

sure its nice to have a car that hasn't been in one, but as long as the chassis is straight, panels can always be fixed/replaced. you should be worrying about the quality of the repair more than anything.

ac1d3o3 Enthusiast

ac1d3o3

Posted
Posted

yeah got a skyline inspected, had a look at it. looked fine to me but they came up with heaps of stuff. theyre really thorough and they give you their opinion about the car. they told me that it wasnt worth buying the car.

probably saved me heaps in the long run.

pentae Mentor

pentae

Posted
Posted

Take it to an a mechanic who mainly does performance cars and imports. Tell him you are interested in buying an r34 and your intentions are to take the vehicle to him for servicing/performance mods.. and could he kindly check that it doesnt have anything wrong with it.

He may do the service for close to nothing to bag you as a future customer.

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by pentae

Take it to an a mechanic who mainly does performance cars and imports. Tell him you are interested in buying an r34 and your intentions are to take the vehicle to him for servicing/performance mods.. and could he kindly check that it doesnt have anything wrong with it.

He may do the service for close to nothing to bag you as a future customer.

Thats probably the best piece of advice ever... well done mate :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...