Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well if you got a GTS4 why would you want to convert to RWD?

If its for a simple dyno etc. you have to drop the front drive shaft. That will lock it in RWD.

If you want to convert to full RWD (and please show me the logic) you need to:

Change gearbox/remove tranasfer box - no harm is done if you want to leave it

Change sump

Remove drive shaft

Remove all ATTESSA related lines/ecu/pumps

But why would you bother?

no, no fuse in the 33....

I have to drop the front shaft everytime I get the car to a dyno :ninja: pain in the arse... and I don't like the draining 4wd reservoir method....

but still begs the question... why do you want it rwd???

your not going to be able to do any better burnouts if thats on your mind...

overall, it is a horrible choice because unless you do everything Chris has said, the car is still going to be 50kg heavier then a nornal non turbo and your removing the 4wd .... why???

Adam

fit a TSC (torque split controller) then you can dictate to an extent the behaviour of the car. although this wont reduce the 4wd ..just control it. alternatively if you have an r33 unplg the g sensor...howver you still cant run it on a rwd rolling road as itll buggr the transmision. oh and youll hve the abs and 4wd light on come the MOT (or your eqivilant test)

so ..not worth the hassle IMO

if you wanted a RWD skyline you shouldnt have got a GTS4 in the first place. other thing to remember is that GTS4s are RWD 90% of the time anyway, its just if you loose traction it will throw some power to the front wheels, and even then its minimal

davegts4 is right

the Attesa system is smart like that. It also says in the service manual to never use 3 tyres and one totally different because it will cause an unbalanced reading and the 4wd light will come on which anytime that light is on just means the Attesa system is inactive.

Guess thats the easy/dangerous way and you probity wouldn't want to do it because its a big WARNING in the book :)

even with the 4wd inactive any attempt to put the car (r33) on rwd rolling will damage the tranfer box. howeve it can be driven on road in rwd ...

Edited by Hesh
if tis a 33 all u have to do is go under ur dash find a pin with a yellow wire on it and take it out start the car and pump the brakes 5 times it disengages the front and u have full rear

Where abouts under the dash is it located exlacty??.

i have a s1 95 r33 gts4 four door and would luv to just know how to make it rwd

  • 1 month later...
fit a TSC (torque split controller) then you can dictate to an extent the behaviour of the car. although this wont reduce the 4wd ..just control it. alternatively if you have an r33 unplg the g sensor...howver you still cant run it on a rwd rolling road as itll buggr the transmision. oh and youll hve the abs and 4wd light on come the MOT (or your eqivilant test)

so ..not worth the hassle IMO

Hello

Where is the G sensor and what does it look like?

Thanks

Jay

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Theres only 2 sensible ways of disengaging the 4WD..

1. What Dave said, remove air evacuation connector (drivers side, lower right instrument panel) and depress the brake 5 times within 10 seconds after placing the ignition switch to ON position. At the same time the 4WD warning light will flash twice a second to indicate it is in RWD mode. To return it to 4WD mode u place the ignition switch to OFF and reconnect the air evacuation connector. I've tried it and it works but never left it in RWD mode for long at all just in case it causes some kind of damage.

2. Remove front drive shaft.

But don't know what would happen to the drive line components if you left it in RWD mode for an extended period of time. Possibly could do some damage to something in the long run? anybody knows?

davegts4 is right

the Attesa system is smart like that. It also says in the service manual to never use 3 tyres and one totally different because it will cause an unbalanced reading and the 4wd light will come on which anytime that light is on just means the Attesa system is inactive.

Guess thats the easy/dangerous way and you probity wouldn't want to do it because its a big WARNING in the book :ermm:

My AWD light it on in my GTS4, ive had it cheeked out a by a couple different mechanics and they cant find the problem, the AWD still works tho. cant get my head around it.

  • 2 weeks later...
My AWD light it on in my GTS4, ive had it cheeked out a by a couple different mechanics and they cant find the problem, the AWD still works tho. cant get my head around it.

Have you/they checked for error codes?

  • 11 months later...

Have you/they checked for error codes?

i have checked for error codes ages ago, after i had it hooke dup to a nissan diag ect, the codes are kinda hard to read but although i forget the fault code it was flashin git didnet help me iwth anything, even tho my AWD light is on the AWD still works. i dont get it. is there anyone who specilises in nissan AWD?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No updates on the car but figured I'd share a nice outing. All the recent work paid off and I got it all together and out the shed for a car based pre-wedding celebration for a good mate of mine. Pretty casual cruise through the hills to a pub for lunch then out for some go-karting at The Bend. Headed down to Myponga for the night We stopped in at the reservoir before heading out down to the coast for lunch via the dam  By the end of the weekend away I covered 350km and the 32 generally behaved its self. A good Shake down after being apart before the Track day in a few weeks  
    • The front prop shaft from my GTR had very notchy unis, which obviously needed replacement but unfortunately uses the (usually) non-replaceable (staked) type.     A new shaft is something like $2K plus shipping from Japan.   I wouldn't even bother asking the local Nissan spares dept.     Rang Hardy Spicer but no go, which surprised me a little.     There's a place over Dandenong way that would make me a 'performance' shaft but un-necessary in my situation.   They claimed to be getting the equipment in to replace staked unis but couldn't give me a timeframe.   Anyway, long story short, found a place to do the work just 5 mins from me: https://knoxdriveshafts.com.au $420 (cash) and about a week later I have my driveshaft back.   Price includes balancing. Owner is a one man band working out of a shed in his backyard but from what I could see he's very well setup with some expensive equipment.  
    • Thanks. That's what I was after. One of the kits, the o-ring side is too big diameter. The other kit is a plate with a o-ring to seal and the hose connection offset.
    • oops that seems much easier lol. 
    • Are you using the factory rail?  Is there any reason you don't want to use one of the two you already have, they don't have to attach to the fuel rail directly.  If you 100% must have a FPR that directly bolts to the fuel rail, you could get a Radium setup. I use a radium fuel rail and the direct mount regulator, it is quite a sexy setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...