Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignitian Barrel Braket Removal

r33rckt

By r33rckt,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone

wondering if somone can explain to me how to get the bolts out that hold the ignitian barrel to the steering column.

i have included some pictures from both sides of the bolts and circled them in red

just to show that there is nowhere for a spanner or screwdriver to go

thanks in advance ppl

post-13428-1227921047_thumb.jpgpost-13428-1227921159_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246860-ignitian-barrel-braket-removal/
Share on other sites
Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

These are designed so that when you tighten the bolts up the bolt heads break off - this means that they can never be removed.

The first question is why do you want to remove the ignition lock?

If the lock has failed or been damaged in an attempted theft then you will have to then find a way to break the housing apart and replace it with a new one (this is what happed to one of our cars after an attempted theft). The challenge is to remove the lock mechanism without damaging the steering column.

NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

Its pretty easy really. Just get a sharp punch and a hammer, hit the punch into the screw far enough to get a large enough "wall" then hit it across. This pushed the screw around and undoes it. Same if your trying to undo any other stripped bolt.

When we did this, we grabbed the grinder and ground a groove through them so we could put them back in with a screw driver easily.

Good luck!

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted (edited)

They can eiher be drilled out, or ise a thin drill, place 2 small holes at the ends opposite each other, and use a fork-type screw piece to extract.

Either way, once they are in, the heads snap off and they are next to impossible to remove, and once removed, they can not be re-used.

B.

EDIT: Could also try using a dremel to cut a | into the top, then use a flat bladded screw driver to get it out.

Again, once it's out, it's finished.

Edited by turbo_brian
r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys i think i can get these out with one of the above ideas

the reason i am taking it out is this is a parts car and somone has asked for the part

they dont want the barrel itself just this metal bracket

i will give these ideas a go cheers

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Yeah awesome, lets just post out on a public forum on how to remove a skylines steering lock....
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

Hmmm, lets look at this in real terms here:

Thief gets into car, goes "hmm, dont want to damage anything" so he pulls out his tool kit, gently removes the steering wheel covers, uses a dremel to score a screwdriver mark in the bolts, and then gentle remove the bolts to get the ignition barrel out, and release the locking pin.

OR

Theif gets into car, uses barrel breaker to pop the lock out, which disables the locking pin anyway, then uses any flat object (key, screwdriver, etc) to turn the ignition over, start the car and vanish.

Seriously here, which is the theif going to do???

The only time a thief would even contemplate gently removing the barrel is if they wanted the lcoking mechanism in prestine condition for a re-sale (if they where cars on a hit-list), and they would simply barrel-break the thing anyway, and repair the lock at a hidden location before presenting the car for sale (in a new country for instance).

Do you think a theif will sit there for 30 minutes in a car to be gentle while stealing it, or would they smash the barrel out in 5 - 10 seconds with a barrel breaker and turn the ignition over and drive off??

Common sense son.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

Hmmm, lets look at this in real terms here:

Thief gets into car, goes "hmm, dont want to damage anything" so he pulls out his tool kit, gently removes the steering wheel covers, uses a dremel to score a screwdriver mark in the bolts, and then gentle remove the bolts to get the ignition barrel out, and release the locking pin.

OR

Theif gets into car, uses barrel breaker to pop the lock out, which disables the locking pin anyway, then uses any flat object (key, screwdriver, etc) to turn the ignition over, start the car and vanish.

Seriously here, which is the theif going to do???

The only time a thief would even contemplate gently removing the barrel is if they wanted the lcoking mechanism in prestine condition for a re-sale (if they where cars on a hit-list), and they would simply barrel-break the thing anyway, and repair the lock at a hidden location before presenting the car for sale (in a new country for instance).

Do you think a theif will sit there for 30 minutes in a car to be gentle while stealing it, or would they smash the barrel out in 5 - 10 seconds with a barrel breaker and turn the ignition over and drive off??

Common sense son.

'Tis true the points you bring out as they are valid, but to be honest as a locksmith by trade, I don't believe any sort knowledge to defeat a cars security should be blatantly spread, regardless if it's time consuming or quick or just "common sense". There's enough cars being stolen as there is, we don't need more.

All valid points...

Edited by KeyMaker
r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks to those who helped out i have now got it out with a slight variation of the afore mentioned methods

and to keep everyone happy i will not disclose the exact details of my top secret method :rolleyes:

even though as mentioned it did take me about an hour

maybe im just slow hehehe.

thanks everyone i apreciate your help

Edited by r33rckt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kapr · Posted

      The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...