Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at building up my car early next year , currently i have around 190kw from fmic , dual stage boost switch , 3 stage heavy duty clutch , bosch 040 pump ,running 10psi , anyway i recently bought a power fc and since then getting around 300kw has been on the cards, and so far i reckon i will need new turbo i think its the hks one on just jap comes with oil lines etc etc , a new oil pump , bigger injectors , maybe twin 040 pumps??? forged pistons and new afm all the work will be done in adelaide either engine on its own or ill send the whole car down , im thinking of sending it to morpowa seeing as they originaly built the car to where it is now before i bought it. so basically what im asking is , have i missed anything??? and will the standard gearbox and diff hold up to the extra power??? im looking at spending no more than 15k any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246878-tell-me-what-you-think/
Share on other sites

to reliably get 300rwkw you will need a rebuild, a bigger turbo is a must (although you did not mention what you have, with 190rwkw i assume its not standard), oil pump will be fine but may need upgrading depending on what you want to do with the car, bigger injectors, i think a z32 afm will do the job, standard gear box will be fine depending on usage.

Try looking in the rb25 dyno section, that will show you what people have to achieve the power you want.

Also what is a 3 stage heavy duty clutch?

For 300rwkw my build would be as follows.

Decent front mount cooler Blitz or the like.

HKS 3037 Turbo kit @ 20ish psi

lower comp to around 8.5

Decent EBC

Nismo injectors 555's will do the job (740's leave more headroom)

Rebuild bottom end with Forges etc

Z32 AFM

Power FC

Not sure about the 040 but a Nismo Pump will do the job nicely

Gearbox will be fine for street use

Exedy Ceramic clutch

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

+1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...