Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I've just got a 1996 25X (RB25DET RWD non-turbo) with no mods and it's awesome! It's been running like a dream, clean changes no shudder and lots of low range pulling power. I am just a little worried about a transmission fault

Twice now I've been driving along and the "check tranmission" light comes on. The engine stalls and the power steering siezes up. Both times I'd just been using 2nd gear to engine brake down a windey hill. I guess it might be overheating but I've checked the transmission fluid and it's clean and full.

I really don't want to hemmorhage money on a AT fault when all I really want is a clutch and a proper gearbox!! But until I am rich enough to rip the bloody thing out does anyone have any ideas about what's going on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247202-transmission-problem/
Share on other sites

run the 4AT transmission diagnostic, could be something simple like a bad connection or faulty solenoid.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3605428

I've got a series 1, is the diagnosis programme different from s2? For starters there isn't an "auto" mode on my AT switch

I've got a series 1, is the diagnosis programme different from s2? For starters there isn't an "auto" mode on my AT switch

Cool done that. After the initial long flash it does ten short flashes and then repeats, so I am guessing a S1 2.5 gearbox is more similar to an S2 RB20DE box. But that leaves me where I started - no diagnosed faults. I double checked the radiator is full and working well so maybe the stall is just something I will have to live with until I get rid of the auto altogether.

Cheers for the help :P

reading your first thread again, sounds more like an engine problem. Usually when you get an A/T fault the A/T light will flash, not just come on, and record a fault in its log.

the next step would be to try the ECU diagnostic, there's a few threads on how to do this, basically find your consult port and jumper 2 specific pins together for a few seconds after turing on ignition, then count the flashes. let me know if you cant find the info.

reading your first thread again, sounds more like an engine problem. Usually when you get an A/T fault the A/T light will flash, not just come on, and record a fault in its log.

the next step would be to try the ECU diagnostic, there's a few threads on how to do this, basically find your consult port and jumper 2 specific pins together for a few seconds after turing on ignition, then count the flashes. let me know if you cant find the info.

yes, you can use the paper clip method, bottom left 2, marked in red.

Maybe your harness is unclipped and hidden somewhere around the fuse box.

Attached thumbnail(s) img-resized.png Reduced 93% http://post-a137279-P1020246.JPG' target="_blank"> 1920 x 1080 (756.52K)

Is this what I'm looking for? Which 2 pins do I bridge and which light will flash? Are these the right codes (below from the same thread) and am I expecting a big flash followed by the code or does it launch straight in?

ECU Diagnostic Codes

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

13 Coolant temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU (ouch!)

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3569100

it will just flash the codes straight up, and keep repeating them

Sweet I did the paperclip thing and it blinked 5 long 5 short. 55=all ok?

Looks like it will remain a mystery. Having said that it hasn't stalled once since I've started messing with it so maybe I should just roll with it.

It's really good to know all this stuff though for future reference. You're a legend chook cheers

you never know, maybe the ecu's are just like pc's, they need to be reset / rebooted (which happens when codes are extracted) every know and then.

Wouldnt hurt also to unplug and replug the ECU and the A/T ECU to eliminate a bad electrical connection there.

you never know, maybe the ecu's are just like pc's, they need to be reset / rebooted (which happens when codes are extracted) every know and then.

Wouldnt hurt also to unplug and replug the ECU and the A/T ECU to eliminate a bad electrical connection there.

I take it the plugs are in the same place behind the coin tray? Where on this pic?

post-58181-1228209983_thumb.jpg

Is the ECU the black box above the multicoloured fuse thingey?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...