Jump to content
SAU Community

Transmission Problem

Kiwi25X

By Kiwi25X,
in Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kiwi25X Rookie

Kiwi25X

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I've just got a 1996 25X (RB25DET RWD non-turbo) with no mods and it's awesome! It's been running like a dream, clean changes no shudder and lots of low range pulling power. I am just a little worried about a transmission fault

Twice now I've been driving along and the "check tranmission" light comes on. The engine stalls and the power steering siezes up. Both times I'd just been using 2nd gear to engine brake down a windey hill. I guess it might be overheating but I've checked the transmission fluid and it's clean and full.

I really don't want to hemmorhage money on a AT fault when all I really want is a clutch and a proper gearbox!! But until I am rich enough to rip the bloody thing out does anyone have any ideas about what's going on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

should be very similar, do you have a switch that says 'snow' or similar. Guess you could give it a try with the switch in one postion, then try the next position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kiwi25X Rookie

Kiwi25X

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've got a series 1, is the diagnosis programme different from s2? For starters there isn't an "auto" mode on my AT switch

Cool done that. After the initial long flash it does ten short flashes and then repeats, so I am guessing a S1 2.5 gearbox is more similar to an S2 RB20DE box. But that leaves me where I started - no diagnosed faults. I double checked the radiator is full and working well so maybe the stall is just something I will have to live with until I get rid of the auto altogether.

Cheers for the help :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

reading your first thread again, sounds more like an engine problem. Usually when you get an A/T fault the A/T light will flash, not just come on, and record a fault in its log.

the next step would be to try the ECU diagnostic, there's a few threads on how to do this, basically find your consult port and jumper 2 specific pins together for a few seconds after turing on ignition, then count the flashes. let me know if you cant find the info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kiwi25X Rookie

Kiwi25X

Posted
  • Author
Posted
reading your first thread again, sounds more like an engine problem. Usually when you get an A/T fault the A/T light will flash, not just come on, and record a fault in its log.

the next step would be to try the ECU diagnostic, there's a few threads on how to do this, basically find your consult port and jumper 2 specific pins together for a few seconds after turing on ignition, then count the flashes. let me know if you cant find the info.

yes, you can use the paper clip method, bottom left 2, marked in red.

Maybe your harness is unclipped and hidden somewhere around the fuse box.

Attached thumbnail(s) img-resized.png Reduced 93% http://post-a137279-P1020246.JPG' target="_blank"> 1920 x 1080 (756.52K)

Is this what I'm looking for? Which 2 pins do I bridge and which light will flash? Are these the right codes (below from the same thread) and am I expecting a big flash followed by the code or does it launch straight in?

ECU Diagnostic Codes

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

13 Coolant temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU (ouch!)

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kiwi25X Rookie

Kiwi25X

Posted
  • Author
Posted
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3569100

it will just flash the codes straight up, and keep repeating them

Sweet I did the paperclip thing and it blinked 5 long 5 short. 55=all ok?

Looks like it will remain a mystery. Having said that it hasn't stalled once since I've started messing with it so maybe I should just roll with it.

It's really good to know all this stuff though for future reference. You're a legend chook cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

you never know, maybe the ecu's are just like pc's, they need to be reset / rebooted (which happens when codes are extracted) every know and then.

Wouldnt hurt also to unplug and replug the ECU and the A/T ECU to eliminate a bad electrical connection there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kiwi25X Rookie

Kiwi25X

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you never know, maybe the ecu's are just like pc's, they need to be reset / rebooted (which happens when codes are extracted) every know and then.

Wouldnt hurt also to unplug and replug the ECU and the A/T ECU to eliminate a bad electrical connection there.

I take it the plugs are in the same place behind the coin tray? Where on this pic?

post-58181-1228209983_thumb.jpg

Is the ECU the black box above the multicoloured fuse thingey?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • funkymonkey
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      According to @acsplit apparently the forum is being migrated from one server to another so should be back up and running once the migration is done.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I thought I would share a few fun facts about Haltech products that I've learnt with their use that they don't share on their website. Haltech GPS speed - Extremely slow to react. It's fine for puttering around but I have no idea what speed I'm driving when in WOT due to the slow response time. This was always going to be temporary as I need mechanical wheel speed for eventual torque management, but it has just been bumped up a priority or two as it's a nuisance.  Haltech I/O Expander - You often hear the response time is slow due to canbus comms, but I could not find concrete evidence and Haltech makes no mention of it. We'll now I have it. I mentioned in an earlier post that I thought my WMI mechanical pressure switch was causing a delayed response from my AEM WMI Controller to my ECU. My WMI begins to operate at 11psi, but my ECU was only getting an "On" signal around 19psi. After removing the pressure switch, there was no change. Luckily I connected my WMI Controller directly to the ECU the morning of my Dyno tune and there was a large improvement. I get the "On" signal around 13-14psi now. These remote IO boxes should be marketed for only non-critical I/O.  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another clutch question

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Best option. A cheaper option is a Xtreme Twin Plate, Organic Sprung Centre
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another clutch question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      8HP conversion.
    • joshuaho96
      Yet another clutch question

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings.  This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.
×
×
  • Create New...