Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think h3 and h3c are different...32s have different headlight globes...they can either have H1 (like mine does) or they can have H3C. just pull it out and check what it is before you buy.

some 32 healight covers actually have the type of globe printed on it. mine doesnt though so had to pull it out to see what globe it took.

not necessarily. i had projectors with h3c bulbs.

as jakez88 said, they can be either h1 or h3c bulbs

oh ok. i just checked the projector type i have sitting in my garage and it was a H1 globe.

so projector headlights uses h3 and h3c and the normal headlamp uses h1, h2 right or wrong

Wrong. The r32 projector headlights come in 2 types.

1 type uses H1 and has a different alloy mount behind the projector to the h3c ones. The H1 globe clips into an adapter that outputs 3 pins (only 2 flow current) which then clips into the headlight loom. The other type is the h3c type. The alloy mount in the projector is different and it plugs straight into the loom with no adaptor. H3 is another type of globe, not quite the same as h3c. It has a positive terminal on a lead like your high beam globe should have and the actual frame of the globe is the negative or ground which when mounted connects the circuit. You can use h3 in the h3c type projector if you wish but you will have to solder the ground directly to the globes frame and it looks messy for no reason. You must pull out your globe and have a look what type is being used as an h1 globe will not fit the h3c alloy mount and vice versa.

Hope this clears up all the confusion on r32 headlight globes... :rolleyes:

also not to forget that there are the non projectors and they use the h4

they look exactly like the n1 gtr lights but just dont have the clips for the front grill

pic posted is of the n1 lights, but the non projector are exactly the same looking

dsc02223iv9.jpg

w640.png

  • 1 month later...
also not to forget that there are the non projectors and they use the h4

they look exactly like the n1 gtr lights but just dont have the clips for the front grill

pic posted is of the n1 lights, but the non projector are exactly the same looking

dsc02223iv9.jpg

w640.png

Hey! Thats my headlight. Now I know, I searched everywhere and couldnt find any information on them. Wonder how i get the little ones in the middle to work...? Anybody know?

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

quick question lads, i have projector on my 32R and have picked up a pair of N1 looking headlights with clips for front grill already in place.. i have heard the one closest to the grills are fog lights.. is that true.. so the large ones (outer) is normal/high beam??

So i got h1 projector lights, and they have that mount thing you guys were talking about, i bought h1 hids and they dont come with a mount thing, how do i install this without cutting up the plastic mount to fit it in?

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...
quick question lads, i have projector on my 32R and have picked up a pair of N1 looking headlights with clips for front grill already in place.. i have heard the one closest to the grills are fog lights.. is that true.. so the large ones (outer) is normal/high beam??

+ 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...