Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i recently picked up my 34 GT-T coupe 5sp manny turbs with 50 thou on the clocko!

hell pumped - i wanna get it on some smooth rims but i have no idea what to get! there are so many good sets!

car is already lowerd, so thats sorted, just need some wheel.

If anyone can post pics that would be awesome!

Cheers

K

post-41748-1228207201_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247396-ideas-for-rims-on-my-34gt-t/
Share on other sites

click on my sig - http://n15m0.blogspot.com

Plenty of ideas there, be sure to click on the archived section as well :)

Dished, non-dished, black, white, chrome all go well with a white 34. Budget for around 3K for a good 2nd hand jap set with decent tyres.

wont get much change outa 4grand for my type of rims, custom offset on rear. :-S and needed spacers for the Front,

I think a nice set of R34 GTR rims will look nice and can pick them up for around 2/3k with tred.

on a 34 i'd have nismo lmgt4's 18x10 (+20 ish) with 265's

on a 34 GTR yes, on a GTT no way unless you flare or go widebody. Even then I doubt the 10" would go well on the fronts not to mention the exceptionally heavier steering.

Agree with ni5mo, i was going to get the nizmo rims, bulk expensive and the way the exchange rate is at the moment ull be payin even more.

Im sure if u were on a budget u could get some cheap junk from ozzytires, was quoted 2600 for 18s with tired deliverd. Not bad.

However i wanted to stay Jap. :-)

depends on ur budget mate...i really like avs 6's with good offset and a 8" front and 9" rear if you want to be conservative without modifying guards...just as long as the offset makes it sit flush its nice.

gram light 57s are awesome in bronze and good offset too if you can find them here in aus.

if u like dish..go rays gtc (black centres if you can) or meisters.

if you like gt4/doritech/uras ns 01's theres someone on the SAU forum selling hanbai m2 DT-05r's for a pretty good price..i reckon they'd look awesome.

*edit* found them...these look sick and the colour would look good against white.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M2...9j-t246246.html

Edited by jakez88

search the forums for DTM rims, there's a place in Melbourne that sells them and ships nationwide... They're pretty cheap but look great ona R34 and they're great quality rims.

I'd recommend something with deep dish if you can find it .. they just look awesome. Also, don't make the mistake that I did and get the same width front and rear. Rears can definately be 9.5" for that nice fat look and still borderline legal. ie. 18x8.5" front and 18x9.5" rear with +35 offsets for a R34 GTT.

Make sure you get the right offset, don't just buy random rims with the wrong offsets - the offset IS important. +35 works well and is very close to spec for the above sizes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...