Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello skyline junkies!

I started a thread a little while back in relation to converting my engine to an RB26. I was pursuaded otherwise, and was told to just forge my internals and get a new turbo.

Currently I am running a HKS 2835 Pro S with all the other mods (PFC, exhaust, front mount, nismo 555cc injectors, boch 040 fuel pump etc etc) and making 273 rwkw, however, it's jsut not cutting it for me.

Now, I need some answers from you good fellas.

1) What do I have to do exactly to get around 350 rwkw? i.e. forge the internals, new plennum, new manifold etc?

2) WHat cost do you estimate ALL of this will amount to, I need specifics i.e turbo $3000, forged pistons $1500, installation et etc??

3) WHat turbo should I be looking at for around 350 rwkw? I've hear the GT35 is the go? But what brand? and what A/R ratio?

Please advise!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247429-forging-rb25-i-need-answers/
Share on other sites

I had:

Pistons

GTR Rods

Tidied up head

The rest was factory.

As for the rest, GT35 you'll need, .82 A/R, and just the usual other standard stuff there are 1000 posts about.

How much $$$ ar we talking including install and parts for the pistons, rods, new cooler pipe work etc?

Buy a morris minor......you'll be so stoked that it is going you won't want to modify it. And every time you think about it it will break down on you and rob you of the chance anyway!!!

Otherwise, go the Gts30t.

i spent $23k on mine

just purchased a new car for the family so my engine is up for sale.

$12k if your interested.

350rwkws.

all included.

Yeah but your's is auto. I am after a manual.

What sort of turbo you got on yours, it was a GT3540 wasn't it?

See the thing is, my car is not stock, I already got the foundation; Power FC, Nismo 555 injectors, bosch 040 fuel pump, 3.5" exhaust, front mount, splitfire coil packs, Jim berry 'full monty' clutch. Plus, I should be able to sell my turbo (GT2835 pro S) for around $2800.

So if you spend $23K on yours from stock to what it is now, if I do it, it should be something less yeah?

Probably not a lot less.

Your only saving what, 5k or there abouts (injectors 800, PFC 1400, pump 200). I dont include anything else as coil packs aren't always required... and exhaust because everyone has one.

Although not sure about 2.8k for a 2nd hand HKS turbo, i could be wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...