Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

like this?? i bought these awhile ago and are still getting things together before i install, but it is the bottom intake cut with adapter plates welding to the ends that mate upto the 6 throttle bodies. it also uses the standard fuel rail and injectors as well.

Thanks

Curt

post-4857-1253797707_thumb.jpg

  • 2 years later...

I did something similiar NEO head with rb26 throttles heres a pic, sorry the engine bay looks a complete mess ...will be fixing that as soon as i get a few other things sorted out

300bi.th.jpg

img2011102000076.th.jpg

img2011102000077.th.jpg

img00091201103262034.th.jpg

img00092201103262034.th.jpg

img00093201103262034.th.jpg

And this is whats going on it :D ...What do you guys think of the GT3071r with .64 rear housing? would it be too small?

img00151201106221704.th.jpg

I did something similiar NEO head with rb26 throttles heres a pic, sorry the engine bay looks a complete mess ...will be fixing that as soon as i get a few other things sorted out

300bi.th.jpg

img2011102000076.th.jpg

img2011102000077.th.jpg

img00091201103262034.th.jpg

img00092201103262034.th.jpg

img00093201103262034.th.jpg

And this is whats going on it :D ...What do you guys think of the GT3071r with .64 rear housing? would it be too small?

img00151201106221704.th.jpg

Did u just cut the inlet RB25neo inlet manifold and weld RB26 tbs to it

I did something similiar NEO head with rb26 throttles heres a pic, sorry the engine bay looks a complete mess ...will be fixing that as soon as i get a few other things sorted out

300bi.th.jpg

img2011102000076.th.jpg

img2011102000077.th.jpg

img00091201103262034.th.jpg

img00092201103262034.th.jpg

img00093201103262034.th.jpg

And this is whats going on it :D ...What do you guys think of the GT3071r with .64 rear housing? would it be too small?

img00151201106221704.th.jpg

Did u just cut the inlet RB25neo inlet manifold and weld RB26 tbs to it

Not sure if Im understanding you correctly mate but I chopped off the runners of the stock 25 plenum and welded up some flanges to accepts the 26 throttles. After that its all a bolt on affair, well relatively, still had to figure out the tps and aac valve and all that. Runs great tho, nistune on the way from australia and I should have some good numbers to post up soon.

Not sure if Im understanding you correctly mate but I chopped off the runners of the stock 25 plenum and welded up some flanges to accepts the 26 throttles. After that its all a bolt on affair, well relatively, still had to figure out the tps and aac valve and all that. Runs great tho, nistune on the way from australia and I should have some good numbers to post up soon.

cheers that's what I ment

Not sure if Im understanding you correctly mate but I chopped off the runners of the stock 25 plenum and welded up some flanges to accepts the 26 throttles. After that its all a bolt on affair, well relatively, still had to figure out the tps and aac valve and all that. Runs great tho, nistune on the way from australia and I should have some good numbers to post up soon.

Seems a lot simpler than what the OP had to do!

Not to offend the op but yeah this was the only way I considered it feasable, welding the head and all seemed a little dodgy to me, and plus I dont have a tig welder handy. :unsure:

If I had to do it again I would have the flanges laser cut and tapped with threads, we attempted to tap them ourselves but I dont know if we just suck at it or our tap set is old, we couldnt get them tapped correctly to accepts the studs. We ended up getting oversized studs and using nuts on both ends to tighten everything down. Another point to make is that the RB25 plenum doesnt leave the head straight out, most of those runners we had to cut all the way down to the flange and weld our own pipe to it. Was fairly tricky and time consuming to match up all the runners so that they left the head straight out and met the flanges correctly.

Not to offend the op but yeah this was the only way I considered it feasable, welding the head and all seemed a little dodgy to me, and plus I dont have a tig welder handy. :unsure:

If I had to do it again I would have the flanges laser cut and tapped with threads, we attempted to tap them ourselves but I dont know if we just suck at it or our tap set is old, we couldnt get them tapped correctly to accepts the studs. We ended up getting oversized studs and using nuts on both ends to tighten everything down. Another point to make is that the RB25 plenum doesnt leave the head straight out, most of those runners we had to cut all the way down to the flange and weld our own pipe to it. Was fairly tricky and time consuming to match up all the runners so that they left the head straight out and met the flanges correctly.

cheers I've very keen on doin this to my RB25/30

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...