Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i have a gtst with 265rwkw, all the usual supporting mods, an unknown clutch (wont know till i blow it i spose) and a nismo 1.5way diff.

how risky is it for me to be flatshifting on:

a) street tyres (245/40/18 RE001's) on the street ( theoretically of course :) )

b) semi's

c) the strip

thanx :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/
Share on other sites

Flatshifting from 1st-2nd and 3rd-4th no problem. Hard part is across the gate like 2nd-3rd.

If you get this wrong on a car with good power, say bye bye to your box.

I have to pause between 2nd and 3rd for a second or a ,orrible sound of syncro,s griding is what i get, ive tryed double clutching which only works sometime, and ive got a newish excedy single plate.

Read in HPI somewhere you can grind of every second syncro for a smoother shift but that sounds a bit bush mechanics for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4298915
Share on other sites

Double clutch=Example-if im in 2nd and want to go to third I, 1. depress clutch and select neutral, 2. release clutch, 3. depress clutch and select 3rd, 5. release clutch.(it sounds tricky but is easy as with a bit of practice)

Flat shift= Example-if your in second when you change to third you dont release the accelerator you just punch the clutch in throw it in third and release the clutch (and hold on because your about to loose traction)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299043
Share on other sites

Hmm....

The only times i would flat shift is if i know i'm going to spin the wheels. ie 1st to 2nd.

i think your car would spin 2nd to 3rd.

dont flat shift if its going to grip, thats asking for trouble.

i change pretty quickly when i'm giving it some... and even without flatshifting i tend to chirp 2nd 3rd and 4th

the car will spin 1st to 4th no worries if i flatshift....

so maybe on the strip with warm tyres its not a great idea?

just curious as the nismo diff is going in very soon and the car will be seein the strip for the first time and i dont wanna be trailoring it home

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299222
Share on other sites

mlr, double-clutch is used for down changes, not up changes. It is designed to match the speed of the engine to the speed of the gearbox. Between steps 2 and 3 (while clutch is engaged, but gearbox in neutral), you would also give a blip on the throttle to bring the engine revs up over what they were when you commenced the down change, so the the engine is revving fast enough to match the road speed. In most modern cars with healthy synchromeshes, it is not actually necessary to release and re-engage the clutch in the middle part (steps 2 & 3 - what happened to 4?), but simply "blip" the throttle. This is commonly referred to as "heel-toe".

Hamish, if you enjoy bouncing the engine on the rev limiter on every (up) gear change, then by all means go ahead and flat shift. Unless you have the supporting electronics, I would strongly advise against the practice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299244
Share on other sites

Step 4 was me swearing at the car.

Double clutching helps me between 2nd and 3rd, this i know for a fact. If i dont double when im up it it grids, if i double it generaly doesnt.

My box has about 170k on it so the syncros are sure to be worn.

You dont need to blip it going up gears only down, to match engine speed to road speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299364
Share on other sites

i change pretty quickly when i'm giving it some... and even without flatshifting i tend to chirp 2nd 3rd and 4th

the car will spin 1st to 4th no worries if i flatshift....

so maybe on the strip with warm tyres its not a great idea?

just curious as the nismo diff is going in very soon and the car will be seein the strip for the first time and i dont wanna be trailoring it home

The point I was trying to make is that you have to do a judgement call on LOAD.

When you drop the clutch and spin the wheels, there is significantly less load on the flywheel>clutch>gearbox>drveshaft>diff>half shafts...... then there would be if you did the same thing, but the wheels GRIPPED.

When you chirp gears, thats different to flat shifting. You're typically not transferring 100% torque through the driveline. (50% throttle or so)

heck, even some high HP cars will always chirp no matter how soft you shift =D

and of course, all of these techniques transfer more load then smoothe shifting.

judgement call at the time, get a better understanding of what your actually doing with these shifts, and you wont need to rely on forum opinions to tell you if what you are doing is safe.

Personally, at the 1/4mile, when your going for a good time, you want to chirp as many gears as you can, without spinning the wheels. But just know you are stressing the driveline. But you cant get a good time without doing so. it is a test of your car's capabilities after all...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299378
Share on other sites

you mean from just smashing the limiter?

Ignition cut rev limiters are baaaaaaaaaaaaaaad.

Step 4 was me swearing at the car.

Double clutching helps me between 2nd and 3rd, this i know for a fact. If i dont double when im up it it grids, if i double it generaly doesnt.

My box has about 170k on it so the syncros are sure to be worn.

You dont need to blip it going up gears only down, to match engine speed to road speed.

Perhaps your pressure plate is knackered?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299386
Share on other sites

Na pressure plate was replaced w/ clutch and was doing it before they were replaced.

Back on topic, ive broken axles, driveshafts and a shifter once when i got a bit carried away once but that was in my old LJ torana.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247587-flatshifting/#findComment-4299414
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • We are taking pricing back to 2022! The skid pan is nearly double the size of avalon so much better for longer battle runs as seen here > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANxdRf3Do2s When: Saturday 14th June 2025 Where: Winton Skid Pan (Winton Motor Raceway) Price: $145 for SAU VIC Members            $199 for non Members Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccommended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Accommodation:  In an effort to try new things and support other country towns we thought a new location for accommodation was worth trying and Euroa was great last time plus its 30 minutes closer to Melbourne. Saturday night we will book a spot at the pub for a couple of quiet drinks.......   Book your accommodation ASAP before it sells out, there are also other options in town if you want to stay elsewhere and join us for dinner Saturday night.   https://euroacaravanpark.com.au/ Address: 73-103 Kirkland Ave, Euroa VIC 3666 Phone: (03) 5795 2160 Entry link with Full Supp Regs to read: https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250614 Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List: 1. Josh M 2. Anna 3. Luke  4. Katie 5. Martin 6.  7.  8.  9.  10.  11.  12.  13.  14.  15. 16.  17.  18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. Reserve List 1. 2.  
    • Yeah, playing with naturally aspirated is not smart bang for your buck power wise, but then I've never been known for being smart when it comes to cars and modifications 
    • I mean from V8 world there are gains to be made in intakes and such over stock items, but definitely only if you tune them. We're talking about I dunno, 10kw here and there on a 300KW v8, gains made by tuning in the 0.2 AFR that it changes so YES but also no you won't notice it other than the sound. Duct the air as mentioned 750,000 times and you will notice happier IAT's which definitely make a difference N/A. I mean my unsubstantiated guess is you'd go from 140kw with everything stock (after cams) to 145kw with everything and a tune :p
    • I decided to "spend baby spend", and "risk it for the biscuit" 2 Orders were made buying parts that I "don't really need but really really want" totalling $2.5k AUD 1: In stock items (intake plenum and throttle body) 2: The airbox thingie, with no real ETA for them getting more stock, so patience will be required 
    • Any further updates on experiences with them? Anyone installed one with a getrag here as yet?
×
×
  • Create New...