Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been digging around looking for the humble old flow maps! seems to be lots of info that doesn't quite add up, but this thread from another forum certainly adds some info..

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=165876

There are a few maps on here!

  • Replies 198
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its really a lot of guess work until we have a few results on a few cars. i know what you mean about the results not adding up. the compressor maps are all over the place.

in regard to the turbine housings the holset ones are BIG... if you look at the 10cm^ housing it is considerably bigger than a .63 housing in any brand both internal volume and external size.

I think there was only one, just listed twice. Yeedogger bought it because you told him to :O

Nah Adro I f**king missed out! The internets went down at work and someone bought it before I got home. Curious if it was someone on this board tho, I'm spewin it would have been a good buy.

  • 3 months later...

Its going great! all in and tuned. had some troubles on the dyno. the car kept climbing out no matter how hard we strapped it. the dyno run done below was the day fefore the final tune and was a very conservative tune to see how it would feel on the road. the final tune made over 310rwkw. not sure how much more as the top pf the power curve was a very wavy line due to wheelspin.

this was the run in tune with boost dropping off.

P1000430.jpg

this was the torque curve :P

P1000431.jpg

and the VERY rich state of tune...

P1000432.jpg

the timing done for the run in was only 12deg at full load!

I now have 4:1:1 diff gears in so the ramp rate is slightly wrong. you need to adjust the figures bit. bacically it hits full boost at 3800rpm on the road

the AFR's are now 11.8:1, Boost is now stable at 20psi and timing is now 16deg it haulls serious ass!!!

Looks like good power, but I'm a little surprised at the boost. That looks about what I boost on my 2.5L with the HX40. Do you have another turbo graph plotting out boost vs. rpm?

Looks like good power, but I'm a little surprised at the boost. That looks about what I boost on my 2.5L with the HX40. Do you have another turbo graph plotting out boost vs. rpm?

the road speed is all wrong because i have 4:11 diff gears now. its alot better than it looks. full boost by 3800 in 2nd, 3rd and better in 4th 5th redlines at 6000 on that graph! if you devide that by 2 and look at the middle of the graph that is exactly where full boost is reached.

cheers!

Oh, 3800 in second gear, that explains it. I try to use the 4th gear figures since that just seems to be what most people judge by and what dyno's are done in and all. I was pretty hard for me (and I'm sure you as well) to get real meaningful figures since the tires just fry as soon as it makes boost in 2nd, even with drag radials. What size housing did you wind up going with? It's good to hear it's not choking it out up top. Have you thought about stepping up to the 7 blade compressor? Those are supposed to flow 9lb/min more, but I don't know if the hot side could handle that.

I am on the 7 blade compressor and the rear housing is the 10cm2 from memory, might be the 12cm2.

it haulls serious ass. comes on smoothly but with a massive surge of power and as you can see it pulls harder and harder all the way to redline no taper off or flatspot.

Even an HX40 is going to have a hard time getting you those kinda numbers. I think you should be looking at a monster like an HX52. Look at the summary at the beggining of the thread (then subtract 80hp from what ever number they put up LOL).

  • 1 month later...

Interesting reading. I just bought a dr30 wich came with a brand new Garrettt T04 truck turbo. I'm thinking about flogging it off in favour of a holset as it will require a t4 flange, and it is only oil cooled not water cooled.

With a stock fj20 what turbo would be suited to see full boost by 4200? Would I only need a spacer to mount the turbo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...