Jump to content
SAU Community

Extra Water Cooling For 6th Cylinder

R33S2

By R33S2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

I have seen pics of some high HP engines in Japan (mainly), where they have run an extra water cooling pipe to cylinder 6 welsh plug, I do know that by the time the water reaches no6 it has passed all the others and would be warmer than when it enters the block, but is it worth the extra work?

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

guess it comes down to how hard out you are going with the engine build . eg tuning or reliablity has become an issue with #6 and this isi needed to solve it . if it aint broke dont fix it . would anyone go to the effort if it wasnt needed. what sort of engines /power have you seen it on . ive never heard of it but it is interesting

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
add more fuel to cyl #6 via the ecu tune

Thats all well and good, i know that is the accepted way of compensating for #6 but what concerns me is the balance of power accross the cylinders and how that effects the crank and bearings, I know that I'm splitting hairs here and if it was a great way to fix #6 alot more ppl would be doing it.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^^ i think more to the point if it was required, everyone would be doing it.

But its not, 400rwkw, motors don't even have a sniff of issues, even bigger power ones.

I mean if these big big budget motors/setups dont feel the need to spend what would be classified as a relatively small amount in the total of the build, then it cant be of too much benefit or a hinderance

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

this came up in one of the discussions i had with Will at jhh terry, and what they do on some cars is run a header tank with extra points plumbed in around the head (like an arc kit for the gtr but with more points drilled into the head)

tufrx3 Community Regular

tufrx3

Posted
Posted

Well for me to make up some fittings to replace a welsh plug near the rear of the block is pretty easy... You could run a t piece somewhere to the fitting to help with the cooling... But i would need to know the size of the welsh plug.....

I have contacted a couple of people regarding this and still waiting for a reply, but i think that this might be a cheap aid...

Not sure what other people think but just thought that i would put my 2 cents in...

  • 2 weeks later...
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
add more fuel to cyl #6 via the ecu tune

Paul, you say add more fuel, how much more? currently on my PowerFC settings, Cylinders 4,5 have 0.5% more, and Cylinder 6 has like 0.7% more than the rest..

What does everyone have theirs set at?

nizmonut Community Regular

nizmonut

Posted
Posted

sacrifice your heater hose at the back of the block and plumb it back to the radiator. creates enough flow. but really, my gts4 was running enough hp to show a mack truck and it never crossed our minds. short of pulling the thermostat that is.

DRIFTER Proficient

DRIFTER

Posted
Posted
this came up in one of the discussions i had with Will at jhh terry, and what they do on some cars is run a header tank with extra points plumbed in around the head (like an arc kit for the gtr but with more points drilled into the head)

i run a similar set up to this and i found it was the only thing that could control water temp after continuous drifting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...