Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Looking for the starter relay on a Stagea (series 2 C34) or even an R34 or R33 should be close enough. I've pulled every relay in the car and the dang thing still cranks... the starter circuit is annoyingly separate from the ignition circuit.

Car is auto btw; also if someone has the location of the park/detent switch that would be fabulous also; I can't find that either and thus have no way of interrupting the starter motor cranking (want to immobilise it, but stupidly the ignition barrel circuit is on the switch side of the crank relay?!?! this means 30+ amps which is more than my immobiliser is capable of)

If someone prefers to PM me this info instead that's also fine...

thanks

DaveB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248038-starter-relay-on-stagear34r33/
Share on other sites

Thanks Chris. According to the fusebox in the engine bay though there isn't a starter relay? (the labels are in english). I also removed my tiptronic gearstick surround but I can't find anything there; when I unplug the main harness connector attached to the gearstick surround it still starts?!?! I guess it must be under the car?

Seriously the only way that I seem to be able to stop this thing starting, is to disconnect the solenoid start wire, which is pretty obvious to a thief (who can just short the starter anyway I suppose).

or interrupt the ecu's main power or ign start signal. or the power to the ECCS relays, or the fuel pump relay signal. there are a few things you can interrupt on the car that will 'immobilise' it, some of them the car will crank but there is now way it will start.

or interrupt the ecu's main power or ign start signal. or the power to the ECCS relays, or the fuel pump relay signal. there are a few things you can interrupt on the car that will 'immobilise' it, some of them the car will crank but there is now way it will start.

Thanks yeah, I will be going for some of these. I just hate it when I can still crank the motor though, 'cause I know that lots of times I am going to try to start the car and it's going to catch me out - ie. crank for a bit before I work out what's going on. It just wears out the ring gear and the starter motor.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a note, the ECU does not seem to like it when you interrupt its main power (not battery power, the relay in the wiring diagram marked "engine control/ignition coil"). Strange since nothing should be happening until ignition is active anyway. Car wouldn't start (well at least it was immobilised :))

Edited by DaveB

Thanks Chris.

Appears that it's ok as long as you immobilise the switched side of the relay; ie. not the coil connections. That adds impedance to the connections that the ECU sees and messes with it.

PS Finally got my immobiliser/alarm system working, with window lift kit and battery backup siren, gps & sms integration etc. etc. It's a really awesome system, and if it all keeps working, it should do fine. And at under $350 in parts including delivery (not counting the GPS module) it was a bargain.

However... the 40+ hours of my time... were not a bargain. If I ever have to do another one of these, I am getting a professional to do it, and if it's a 'messy' job I'll just try to tidy it up afterwards, rather than trying to keep it all tidy from the beginning. It's a lot of work. I just finished replacing the insides of my stagea AGAIN after having them out for the last 12 hours chasing a short in my parking light circuit. Not fun.

Edited by DaveB

how do you think you will go with the insurance side of things? if you ever have to make a theft claim (god forbid), i thought you had to show that you had a professional do the install of the alarm immobiliser system, i might be wrong though. this is the only reason i haven't gone and installed one myself.

I recommend getting it done professionally anyway unless you have at least a week to spare (just in case)... but as for the insurance companies it seems to be company specific. I contacted mine (Shannons) and they told me as long as they could see it working they didn't care if it had a certificate or not. Others may be different (and may give you a reduction of your premium for having a security system fitted too :D)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...