Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I got a pod filter that bolts straight onto the stock AFM. Thats not the problem.

My problem is getting the factory airbox off. Now, the screws (and one clip) holding it to the chassis is ok, but the bolts to the AFT are a b!tch. I cant budge them at all (i broke a cheap spanner in the process). Also, even if i were to the top 2 off, the bottom 2 i cant even get a spanner to grip onto the bolts.

Can anyone help with this.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24818-help-remove-factory-airbox/
Share on other sites

I just recently (like 4 days ago) replaced my stock air box with an aftermarket pod filter.

My 4 bolts were also not easy to remove, I used a socket wrench to get mine off, I found it ALOT easier using this than an open-end spanner.

Once I had the bottem half of the box out, I found I could lift the top half with the AFM up a little bit to get to the bottem 2 bolts.

One last thing, my POD is an HKS Super Power Flow, if yours is this too, be prepared to have an even harder time getting the nuts onto the stock bolts when attaching the new mount thing for the POD.

Hope some of this helps :-)

Hey Bud,

I too found it quite difficult to pull the bugger off, but still managed to do it with a simple spanner set.

However what threw me was the bolts themselves. What I initially thought was the bolt to do, actually ended up being welded to the box instead. I was trying to undo the wrong bolt. I guess just be sure that you're unwinding the correct end.

Failing that, a can of WD40 can do wonders also. :D Hope this helps.

use the right tool for the job.

if your talking about what i think you are use the correct sized socket with an extension bar. if its hard to undo use a larger ratchet eg: 1/2 in

if its still hard just add a 1 meter pole to the handle of the ratchet and get a friend or someone to turn the pole whilst your holding on to the ratchet..... this can do wonders :(:D but i only generally encourage this to be done on the exhaust with impact sockets... :rolleyes: oh and make sure if you do this your tools have a life time warranty :D for obvious reasons

Just be very careful if your kit comes with screws to bolt on the holder thing so it holds the pod up off the ground, mine ) apexi hi flow) were a bitch to get in and i broke 3 of them in the process as they were made of some type of alloy had to drill the f* er out .. also be REALLY Careful about any screws near the AFM meter it cracks easy

you need to undo the bolt on the outside of the airbox where the AFM meets the airbox. The Nuts on the inside are permanently attached. Use a 10mm socket, makes it a piece of piss.

Also as Craved said it is much easier to remove the airbox and AFM assembly out of the car!

I changed mine in about 30mins.

the bolts being permanently attached is something i found out the hard way =)

also, yes it is (a hell of a lot) easier once you remove it out of the car... takes a few minutes once you take it out.

thanks for the help guys

Just a little advice with tools,,,,chuck away all your open end spanners please,,,these crude devices will be the death of you. Ring spanners and sockets are the only way to go.

if your going to throw them out send them to me i'll have them. ive been in many situtations where a ring will not fit on the bolt because of the positioning of other things around it. The only way ive gotten some bolts of in the past is with the open end.. its designed for a reason,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...