Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm guessing the 2871 would be a more appropriate sizing for 220-250kw and ultimately quicker spooling and response?

Less torque but more consistent over the power band.

Smoother power delivery slightly but holds about the same up to redline!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey, ive had my NEW hypergear hiflowed turbo on my r33 for 4days..

just sent my stock rear exhaust housing (snail) to the east...

they hypergear fitted a ATR28 G2 core and new front compressor housing(polished!! :thumbsup: ) ..

and a 14psi actuator..

all for $925 including shipping...

done bout 200ish k's...

and its goning well...

still running it in...so yeah..

but seem alot better than stock..

and it boosts alot better too, from what boost levels ive hit....

i would recommend this to any r33 driver that requires a new turbo...

evan if car is fairly stock...e.g: ecu/afm/injectors...

theres a few modifications u gotta do to make it fit..

like the oil feed line...and the inlet & outlet on the compressor housing..

but other than that its worth the upgrade...

Ok here's a initial running in result from a high flow using a ATR28SS. car had boost controller issues so peek boost of 12psi and dropped to 9psi. made 201rwkws with almost identical response to stock Ceramic BB turbo. Car will come back to do a run power tune once done 1000KMs, expecting even better response with about 250rwkws..

RB25Neo, Stock ceramic BB turbo vs ATR28SS. The car was dynoed before turbo upgrade.

atr28ssRB25200kw.jpg

atr28ssRB25200kwboost.jpg

Edited by hypergear
  • 2 weeks later...

could you please provide me with a price, delivery into Adelaide, for a Hypergear ATR28G3(450HP) profile in Ball-Bearing

would like it to be highflowed to the maximum to front / rear housings, to suit a RB25det

cheers, much appreciated

could you please provide me with a price, delivery into Adelaide, for a Hypergear ATR28G3(450HP) profile in Ball-Bearing

would like it to be highflowed to the maximum to front / rear housings, to suit a RB25det

cheers, much appreciated

would also like a quote on this. emphasis on ball bearing cartridge not thrust bearing. with supplying own r33 standard turbo

delivery to brisbane aswell

Thankyou :thumbsup:

Edited by stenve

Please check PMs. Also some bad news on the Garrett BB CHRAs. Garrett fliped their whole sale price up by 33% over night on popular CHRA models. lol. So now its going to cost 33% using Garrett GT CHRAs.

Edited by hypergear

i had a tr43 on my rb20det i couldnt adjust the acuator as it was hitting the rear housing of the turbo. so it was boosting to 20psi, apart from that it lasted oh say about 2 weeks befor it shit itself there f*kin shit if your gunna buy a turbo spend the money.

Rowan unless this turbo was made back in 2006 or a similar looks alike this sort of thing do not happen to our TR43s. Our internal gates in them has been specifically designed and tested on RB25s they do not spike, also Our rear housing never hit, They are running the same diameter as a .58 R34 rear housing. and using the exact same diameter comp housing as a S14. There is no chance it will hit.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...