Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a small black box with a vacc hose running into it (located in the engine bay, just in front of the driver side of the firewall) - follow this hose and make sure its connected - if there is nothing wrong with your turbo, this will be the problem.

As Stan said, it's the black box by your brake master cylinder, it's called the Pressure Sender Unit. They'll die after a while, but you can usually source them from wreckers pretty cheaply. Simple swap one bolt.

hi all,

thanks all for the replys and help. Yesterday night i took it for a spin to give it another go. after 10 mins of nothing it just decided to wake up. At first the needle was jumping around a bit until it settled down and started measuring properly. Then this morning when I started, it was working fine, then it died again for about 10 mins, then it came back. Fine since.

It seems that it wakes up when i start to hit the turbo. Usually i drive granny style to conserve fuel on the weekdays. like you guys said it could be the pressure sender unit. anything else it could be? also should mention ive only had the car for about 3 weeks, just imported.

hi all,

thanks all for the replys and help. Yesterday night i took it for a spin to give it another go. after 10 mins of nothing it just decided to wake up. At first the needle was jumping around a bit until it settled down and started measuring properly. Then this morning when I started, it was working fine, then it died again for about 10 mins, then it came back. Fine since.

It seems that it wakes up when i start to hit the turbo. Usually i drive granny style to conserve fuel on the weekdays. like you guys said it could be the pressure sender unit. anything else it could be? also should mention ive only had the car for about 3 weeks, just imported.

About 99% sure it's your sender unit. Exactly the symptoms of a sender unit on it's way out.

yeah just a faulty sender unit.. guage is fine.. and yeah not a priority as it only shows you the boost level.. how much do you look at it? especially if you drive like a granny..

Can i thread Hi-jack alone the line? You know the hose that connects to the pressure thingy, mine keeps cracking and coming off and making a hissing noise in the engine bay (which also causes the turbo gauge to not work, so im still on topic :D) but, i cut the hose at the cracked area and stuck it back in, but the problem is im running out of hose to cut, and i think i need to replace the new hose...has anyone done this? and is it hard?

Piece of piss mate. Just unplug the hose from the sender unit to the plenum... measure it up and buy a new one. Then plug back in. While you're there, try locking it in place with cable ties so it doesn't work loose.

Piece of piss mate. Just unplug the hose from the sender unit to the plenum... measure it up and buy a new one. Then plug back in. While you're there, try locking it in place with cable ties so it doesn't work loose.

Cheers Howie, always helpful. :D I was just worried coz when i looked at it at night it seemed a bit niggly. lol

I believe from memory it's a special hose - 2mm ID going into the port in the plenum and 4mm at the sender. You'll be hard pressed to find such a hose so you can either 1) find a step-up/down adaptor (plastic one will do) or 2) use a 4mm hose and just wrap a small zip tie around the inlet port to hold it down.

i have this same problem in my basically stock 34, the boost gauge just decides to die and then come back to life a few mins later every once in a while, i started a thread on it also, and i think it might have been howie that said the same thing to me, that it would be the sender unit, im yet to source and install a new one though seeing as it doesn't seem to be causing any problems

yeah, exact same. dies then 5 mins later, strungles and comes back. i'll get to fixing the pressure sender one day i guess. car still flies nicely so im still happy.thanks for all the help all. one last question is what exactly does the boost sender unit look like? i can't seem to locate it. i know i'ts near the brake booster, but still can't find it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...