Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok. So I was driving on Saturday, and when I gave it a bit (under full boost = 10psi) it would hit a wall kind of like boost cut at 4500rpm for 5 secs then kick into boost again.

Checked over a few things that I thought could be the problem.

1: cleaned afm and plug.

2: tightened intercooler piping and checked for boost leaks.

Nothing worked

Was running and driving fine apart from when I put my foot down.

Then this morning I went to start it up and it wouldn't kick over. So I got a new battery since the one I had was a lil old, put it in and still no dice

All the belts are moving and its just on the point where it wants to kick over, which makes me think it could be the starter motor??

Car was also recently tuned.

Car: Silvia

Engine: Rb25det

Mods include, splitfire coilpacks, turbo back zorst, Apexi avcr, apexi safc, platinum plugs, intercooler, brass button clutch, nothing major.

Any suggestions would be great.

cheers, Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248397-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

So it's cranking, just not starting? If that's the case, it wouldn't be starter motor. To eliminate that, try jump starting it. If it starts, that'll be the problem. It still would explain the problems under boost.

I would have said coil packs, but you've said their spitfires so that wouldn't be it. Have you had any work done to the car recently?

Check the ignotion system. Is the car getting spark? Is it getting fuel? Are there any plugs that have fallen off? All the vacuum lines attached? I'd check all these first, and then take it to a mechanic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248397-car-wont-start/#findComment-4309946
Share on other sites

You need air, fuel and spark to start an engine. Seeming as though you havent listed an aftermarket fuel pump (possibly meaning your still running the 15 year old standard one) under mods that would be the first thing I'll be checking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248397-car-wont-start/#findComment-4309984
Share on other sites

try checking the coilpack wiring loom as this can deteriorate overtime which will also cause the car to not start apparently some people who replaced the coilpacks didnt realise that while doing it they might have damaged the wiring as overtime heat caused the wiring to be crispy and would crack easily

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248397-car-wont-start/#findComment-4311013
Share on other sites

Changed the ECU and ignitor module yesterday, neither worked, there was no spark at all. So the problem lies between the module and ECU (as said above, in the harness somewhere).

My thoughts, it could be the resistor?

IS anyone an auto electrician on here or know someone that can come to me as the car doesn't go. For cash :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248397-car-wont-start/#findComment-4311519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...