Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Its just natural for the multi sensory experience to be appealing... i guess its a different case from person to person.... I like the sounds it makes, not because all my mates will hear it and think its fully sick, its just a pleasing sound for ME....if u dont like ur exhaust sound, get a silencer!

I agree with franks.

I elected a 3" straight through exhaust with a 3" tip. I told the exhaust shop I wanted it done to be as silent as they could make it.. Yes I knew it was going to be loud. I said this is why I kept the tip the same size, and opted for just a no frills stainless muffler, no rice cannon thanks.

The result? A very very smooth and powerful sound. It's definately, but loud in a powerful way. Like a european super car.

Not like those guys driving around in civics (and some with silvias) with 4.5" tips that sound and look like a milo tin rattling. Sounds like shite.

  • 3 months later...

Well after a 10 day wait in delivery (damn postman having a xmas holiday grrr) I replaced my HKS Pod filter with the standard airbox and a standard panel filter (came with it). Wasn't difficult to do but damn I can't wait till the new Snap-On tool set arrives, it'll make like so much more easier.

Ahhh sweet sounding RB25DET with no pod induction noises :P:):)

Under 3,500rpm it feels more responsive but over 3,500rpm i think its lacking power over the HKS Pod filter. I'm not in a great hurry to replace the standard panel filter with a K&N unless I can find 1 at the right price so i'll just see how fuel comsuption goes now with the standard paneil filter vs pod filter.

I've never had a pod but there was a bit of a difference once i put my K&N panel in... I'm getting a fmic on thursday and still keeping the factory box, i'll just be modding the factory snorkel as the piping will hit it :D

I've got a FMIC with the piping useing the standard holes in the corner, nothing needed to be modded on the stock airbox to make it fit.

I was looking into an fmic like that... i found one i liked but the piping was going to be lower than my front bar (which is very low) so the piping would hit the ground... so i have to got with the other style...

Ben, why didn't you just get a box for the pod?

I have the box from UAS (infact I've had it for 11mths and it cost me like $200). But I didn't like my Pod filter, too noisey and it needed modding just to fit in with my IC pipes. Also I didnt have a CAI for it so the only air it was getting was the dirty hot engine bay air.

The stock box makes the car such a pleasure to drive now. No wooshing or hissing sounds :D

Edit: Still have the UAS box here too so if anyone wants it PM me an offer :D

franks but u campared the stock airbox to an exposed pod in the engine bay tru? im sure a high quality oiled pod in airtight heat proof box wif a phat CAI would give more gains then both options, ive heard of people netting 10kw@ the wheels wif a custom box setup but i havent seen any proof

I dropped into my local AutoOne on the way home today and they sell the K&N Panel Filter for $109.95 and the Redline Panel Filter for $71.25

They had a K&N setup on a bench which consisted of a large perspex box with a hole cut in the front with the K&N Panel Filter connected to it. At the back (inside the box) was 2 massive 15cm electric fans sucking the air through the filter. A ping pong ball was in a plastic cylinder and the ball did not move no matter if the K&N Air Filter was in place or whether it was removed with no filter.

Excellent airflow if you ask me...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...