Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was driving this car around in japan for 2 days with a stuffed manifold/turbo gasket. Its now back in aus and last night I replaced the gasket.

Things I took off:

Top intercooler pipe

BOV

Standard heat shield

Couple of Vac/boost lines

Turbo

Also played with, but didnt remove:

Rubber intake pipe/AFM/POD

Bottom intercoolerpipe

Car:

FMIC

15psi

standard Turbo

Exhaust

Ive been over things 2/3 times still no luck, feels like the intake pipe is sucking closed, cause if I keep my foot on the throttle the problem keeps going if, I take my foot off it acts like normal.

*just had a thought that maybe I split an intercooler rubber joiner??? Will check that as well,

I dont have internet (at a friends house) any help would be great will check again hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248761-car-wont-rev-past-5000rpm/
Share on other sites

yeah, my fuel-pump was slowing dying ova the year.,,

well u could feel that wen pushing hard on throttle it wasnt the same..

then some days in the morin wen turning...and if i planted the throttle..

it would hit lik 4000 or 5000rpms..around der.. and lik feel like boost cut..

"lik ur pushing a brick wall"

so anyways..i just replaced my fuel pump with a gen. walbro kit..rated to 550hp..great fit..easy install...

and now..no more issues..

:)

hope this helps..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...