Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, i am running a rb226 harness on my rb25, and there are many differances, the biggest obstacle in front of me is the knock sensor harness and sensor them selves, on the rb25 the harness is intergrated into the lower harness, and they are green, on the rb26 they are black with a bolt through them, my first question can i splice my old sensors into the rb26 harness, or should i run the rb26 sensors, on top of that, does any other motor cross refence to the knock sensor harness since i do not have a rb26 harness perhaps a sr or ca ? any advice or input is apprecited, also i am running a power fc, so i know that i dont need the sensor (pfc does not retard timing like stock ecu) but i want it for the exta safety ( i have a wideband o2 as well as a egt sensor)

yeh i noticed lol

if the two sensors read the same voltage i think it would work, if u just ran theknock senors directly to the ecu, using rb25 harness, going to rb26 ecu plug

I am putting the RB26DETT head on my Neo RB25DET Block, so my plan is to swap over the upper part of the RB26 harness onto my RB25DET harness inclusive of the injectors and resistor pack and whatnot. Getting the damaged RB26DETT engine this weekend.

if the two sensors read the same voltage i think it would work, if u just ran theknock senors directly to the ecu, using rb25 harness, going to rb26 ecu plug

sounds good in theory but rb25 use 1 wire type knock sensor. rb26 run 2 wire knock sensor. gotta get my hands on wiring diagram to make sure which wire does wat.

sounds good in theory but rb25 use 1 wire type knock sensor. rb26 run 2 wire knock sensor. gotta get my hands on wiring diagram to make sure which wire does wat.

yeah i was looking for a diagram as we speak, i hope its a power ground think since the 25 is tied into lower harness and is grounded there

yeh i was thinking along the same lines.... wasnt sure if the 26 may use individual grounds or not... tis all

yeah i know that only one wire goes to the ecu plug so i assume its a ground, any luck on wiring diagram, i do happen to have the two types of sensors on hand

waiting on a mate who has got them... not as of yet tho. i had a crazy thought of gettin the original knock sensors off the 25 and retrofitting them to the 26 block only problem is i would have to drill the block to make them fit due to the different thread size. not sure if this is even a valid option... probably not lol. if ne one else has ne ideas would be gr8 to hear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...