Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BP East Perth appeared to have plentiful U98 bowsers this morning as I drove past.

gazza, how long have you been using vortex98 for? I put half a tank in once as a last resort but other than that I always run U98 regardless of cost. I didn't buy a skyline and then modify it to be economical and saving $5 on a tank of a fuel is meh.

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've been using vortex98 since it came out (business fuelcard). No difference in performance or engine wear etc... and saves me having to travel to thornlie to fill up (closest bp).

ERRRR, that station is in HUNTINGDALE, not THORNLIE.

*mutters rude words at thornlie*

I've been using vortex98 since it came out (business fuelcard). No difference in performance or engine wear etc... and saves me having to travel to thornlie to fill up (closest bp).

The story I got with the covers on the 98 (usually happens with the caltexes along sth street at the same time) was that they only get rationed a small amount, so when they run out (tanks get low..not empty) they whack the signs on and force people to fill with 95 or 91. I also got told that the 98 all comes from the same place...

The petrol stn guy did offer to let me fill with 98 but said it'd be dodgy quality due to being bottom of tank stuff.

yeah im still stickin with the tags were out coz they didnt want people using the fuel till the prices were up, i highly doubt they would have all been out of 98 an the caltex's, which use the same fuel, are full, morely just sounds like the luck of the draw with that.

As for my near tow, strich, i ventured for fuel when my car got to a good 8th of a tank left, i arrived at the caltex with the fuel light on

ERRRR, that station is in HUNTINGDALE, not THORNLIE.

*mutters rude words at thornlie*

Haha, forgive me. Area is full of bunkies... At least the local servo dude tells me when they get fresh 98 :(

I don't use BP. (not that i have to in car)

I find they are dogey pricks all the time, the bp's near me charge the same price for E10 Fuel as other petrol stations charge for 91 octane.

plus the Bp near me doesn't have 91, and their pumps are always closed.

i'm caltex kid or the private one near me house, his prices are good, he doesn't bump them up on a monday or friday. so i usually go to him on weekend if i have too.

for all those vortex 98 haters, let me tell you a little secret, last year before the Australian National Championships, we had all three 98 octane fuels (BP, Peak and Caltex) tested from three different petrol stations for each brand and guess what, the average octane rating in the Caltax three samples were higher than Peak which was higher than BP.....

I run only vortex 98

Interesting..

Consistancy is still an issue with me, if someone could do that test every month for a year then I could be converted but until U98 bites me in the ass I will continue to use it as I know it is reliable.

Isnt there only one refinery in WA that can produce 98octane?

yes but the vortex 98 blend is a different blend than ultimate 98

bp and caltex have their own blends done at the same refinery

i have been using vortex98 since it came out with no problems and i wont say fuel caused my big end bearings to crap themselves thats an oil control prob

Edited by gazza750
yes but the vortex 98 blend is a different blend than ultimate 98

bp and caltex have their own blends done at the same refinery

i have been using vortex98 since it came out with no problems and i wont say fuel caused my big end bearings to crap themselves thats an oil control prob

100% sure it was oiling and not detonation from shit fuel?:blush:

BP Woodvale 97.5c per litre

BP Wanneroo about 2 mins away, 108c per litre

f**k your consistency bp, I've got about half a tank left so this shit better be sorted one way or the other by the weekend ;)

Use Bp sometimes, Caltex sometimes (more a while ago as work was paying with the fuel card) and for the saturday's entertainment had a full belly of United 98. The bunky doesn't really give a rats about what I put into it, slurps it down and makes smoke and funny noises from the tyres (350rwhp so not entirely lethargic). Knock levels were the same as any I'd seen previous. I must say that I like the smell of caltex98 better.. smells sweeter, must be the aromatics. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...