Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive tuned your car!!.. Twice! Stop your whinging!

& No can do Titan.. you got stock turbo.. i am guessing it would break on your first anti lag.

ignore that bit i want the wanky idle :) the antilag would have an arming threshold of 8000rpm and 100% throttle. but you have to have it on for the ilde so running 0 degrees ignition retard with an arming rpm that i wont reach will mean it never triggers and my exhaust wheel remains out of my cat.

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know you have, and it's still alive! :banana:

It would be in skyline heaven if I tuned it :)

Guilt-toy is a gun tuner...im going to get him to look at my 13th century medieval harp as well.

im going to be installing my vipec tonight so i can get it in before my engine is started. ive got a few questions.

i want to hook up my wideband to it, where do i get the expansion loom from? how much are they?

i read in the vipec manual that you had to use a 1mm restrictor for the map sensor, has anyone done this? i was doing this with my greddy 3bar map sensor to keep the boost readings steady and it worked really well (except i had to use a 0.3mm restrictor).

which wires does the IAT sensor connect to?

IAT has to be wired in yourself to any of the AN Temp inputs (mine is on temp3 (expansion connector)), you can wire your wideband up through the NB oxy wires (AN Volt 6).

My map line doesn't have any restrictors in it.

The Vipec dealer can supply the expansion loom. Alternatively you can solder direct to the board (I did for my boost switch)

i wouldnt solder onto the board, re-sale of it would be less if it was tampered with i think. is there a PC part out there that will work for now?

I don't plan on selling it, so resale is not a problem...and it can be removed in no time at all :happy:

I looked for a suitable connector at Jaycar, but couldn't find one. The pin spacing is very small.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sounds great. I have an overboost problem at present and wouldnt mind checking out whether its teh boost controller thats causing the problems without buying an expensive new one. Solinoids are 100NZD (not sure about AUD) if you want a new one also.

Look forward to hearing how it goes mate.

Got the stock r33 RB25DET boost solinoid working with the Vi-Pec on the weekend. It works very good. Honestly if you spent a little extra time with the boost controller settings you could get it to have a very very flat boost curve. Mine spikes a little but i was happy with the way it spiked.

You need to program the duty cycle per load point. So if it spikes you add duty number, if boost is too low you you remove the number. Took me AGES to work it out. but once i got it worked out I got decent boost pressure AND....

502.JPG

I did get 511rwhp with e85 but it was running very very lean up top because i was out of injectors. So yeah very happy with my flat power curve from 135 to 180 all the way it has 2hp more or less then 500 :thumbsup: ! Just how i like it. Useable power revs.

Changed back to pump

The more I use my Vi-Pec the better i am getting with it, Twoogle was a breeze to tune as well.

So yeah another win for this great ecu. Cost me 0$ for electronic boost controll and its only a 2 port solinoid!!

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

there is alot of setup there mate, like

- Install ECU and run map sensor

- Install air temp sensor in pipe and run wires

- install digital input to clutch switch and run wires

- Set timing on engine

- Map ecu for cruise and boost...

Thats a big mission.. I would think it could take 4 hours totally completed by a Vi-Pec experienced tuner. He would have to be good at what he does and know how to do it and has done it with this ecu a few times.

I did notice with pauls car that when i was setting up and getting ready to tune I was flying through the setup and getting all configured and working ready to tune in no time at all.

So yeah 4 to 5 hours if nothing else goes wrong - Drive in - Drive out deal.

I would love to see someone setup a Power FC and tune it in that time, setup a aftermarket boost controller and setup a aftermarket launch interface and then your still missing anti lag and PROPER flat shift with time delay and timing retard.

So yeah this ecu is friggin awesome now, once its actually fully finished and developed properly (Ray hall is continually working on improving it and adding features) it will be a pretty damn good first choice ecu for all applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be worried about having to parallel park a boat like that. Magnificent car though.
    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
×
×
  • Create New...