Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm just trying to confirm a few things I've seen on the forums here recently in regards to the differences between R34 GT-V's, and GT-X's.

I believe it was in a research thread, it was mentioned that the main difference is that a GT-V is basically a GT-T optioned chassis (bigger brakes, and so on), but with an RB25DE (neo) instead of a DET (obviously).

I'm just trying to confirm if this is the case, and if possible, maybe see if I can get a hold of a list of differences between the GT-T, GT-V, and GT-X (and I guess any of the other N/A Model 34's, like the GT25).

The reason is that I'm a p-plater in Melbourne, and subject to the new laws (which means no turbo til after I'm off my P's).

I want my R34 now, and if the above is true, then obviously a GT-V would be a better longer term option, whether I'm turbo'ing the original engine (Thanks 666DAN :/), switching the engine, or just getting into N/A performance.

Is anyone able to enlighten me?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/
Share on other sites

Here's a bit of reading on the GT-V for you: http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~skyworks/gtv_specs.html

Personally I would go for the GT-V for the turbo brakes and other handling features. Nissan failed at N/A brakes, and having the bigger R34 4 and 2 pot calipers with bigger rotors from the factory is certainly worth while.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/#findComment-4324625
Share on other sites

What you said in your 2nd sentence is pretty much spot on. Thats why I bought one.

I've added links from my research in previous threads over the past couple of years so a search may bring them up as this has been asked before.

Also want to mention the GT-X also comes in a turbo. Alot of people don't know this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/#findComment-4324684
Share on other sites

Here's a bit of reading on the GT-V for you: http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~skyworks/gtv_specs.html

Personally I would go for the GT-V for the turbo brakes and other handling features. Nissan failed at N/A brakes, and having the bigger R34 4 and 2 pot calipers with bigger rotors from the factory is certainly worth while.

Thank you! Lots of good information :ninja:

What you said in your 2nd sentence is pretty much spot on. Thats why I bought one.

I've added links from my research in previous threads over the past couple of years so a search may bring them up as this has been asked before.

Also want to mention the GT-X also comes in a turbo. Alot of people don't know this.

I did do a search, but unfortunately, my work has a fairly annoying firewall, which stops me from searching properly, and from replying :laugh:

And I have seen the GT-X turbo, does that mean it doesn't have the bigger brakes? Would be odd :D

I will be trying to find your other threads.

Again, thank you guys for this - now I just have to work out 4 or 2 doors, and see what I can find.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/#findComment-4328142
Share on other sites

GT-X is equipment trim level - it has no bearing on things drivtrain wise such as HICAS, turbos, brakes etc....

Basically a GT-X is a speced up model of the basic GT such as Xenon lights (usually butchered during compliance), premium audio (please note this is jap spec), rear privacy class, heated mirrors... probably other small things here and there......

GT 2.0

GT 2.5

GT-X 2.5

GTT 2.5 (turbo)

GTT-X 2.5 (turbo)

Essentially a GT-V is the same spec level as a GTT-X 2.5 (turbo) - minus the turbo charged engine and guages.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/#findComment-4337098
Share on other sites

Just a side note on the brakes, i've got stock r34 na brakes on mine and i'm very impressed how it pulls up. I can get abs kicking in quite easily at 110km/hr, so on the street its more than enough. Even with the pads in it, it takes some very spirited driving it get them "fading". I actually think it pulls up harder and faster than my brother r32 gtr (std brakes aswell).

With that being said, once it gets the new engine i've new rotors, calipers, pads and lines for it :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249359-r34-gt-vgt-x/#findComment-4337664
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...