Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

of course the car is going to go around corners faster. It has 4 huge tyres compared to the bikes skinny two.

...then u have the massive advantage of power to weight, my previous bike was lightened to 166kg with mods which took it to 173.5rwhp! best et was only 10.2s which isnt much - being a bike the laws of physics wont keep that front wheel down.

just think what a gtr will run with the same power weight ratio

the R35 GTR must be absolutely amazing

the brakes, amazing.

the bike in this instance was a good fair choice, just the extra massive breaks from the GTr, and its stability thru the corners, kept it up and in front.

would like to see the comparison 1 half-hour later after they have run the lap 3 times...... would be slightly closer than 3secs but not by much.

GTR must be awesome. enough said. the bike was ridden well, cple corners I saw he was hesitant with the car in front of him so I really reckon 2 more laps and the bike rider would be more comfortable and even more "committed" as they were saying.

nice find, thanks for that.

Thanks for the post....great vid

Looks like you have an aftermarket exhaust on your M3 there mate...

What did you go for? Did you eliminate that raspy note in the mid rev range?

I've been listening to all of the clips on klangford, but there isn't one that does it for me :D

Have you taken any video clips of yours? :D

...then u have the massive advantage of power to weight, my previous bike was lightened to 166kg with mods which took it to 173.5rwhp! best et was only 10.2s which isnt much - being a bike the laws of physics wont keep that front wheel down.

just think what a gtr will run with the same power weight ratio

Or, another way to think about that last bit:

Think what a GT-R will owe you to have the same power to weight ratio... :happy:

true, cars are expensive if ur chasing hp!

u can spend 10k on a 05 model jap bike and it will pull low 10's - at the riders discretion...i stopped riding this yr due to the danger factor as a few of my friends have had life changing accidents so i think the extra money spent on a fast gtr is well worth it

needless to say ive kept my leathers, tyrewarmers, stands etc just incase :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...